Re: Question about Orange Peel

Posted by Rod (NH) on July 27, 2005 at 19:18:20 from (64.140.200.138):

In Reply to: Re: Question about Orange Peel posted by CNKS on July 27, 2005 at 17:20:33:

Oh, I'll certainly agree that for better atomization, increasing the air pressure at the gun would be the correct way to go if needed. Even if you wind up exceeding the manufacturer's stated maximum 10 psig "at the cap" for HVLP. That is, unless you are in an area and a situation where legal compliance is the prime consideration. So far, with my somewhat limited experience with my HVLP spot gun, I have not found the need to either increase or decrease the gun air pressure from the stated maximum. However too high an air pressure for the paint flow can be a cause of dry spray - if, indeed, that is part of the problem.

I can't remember where I read the 70% and I am not even sure it was 70%. But it was greater than 50%. Here's what Dr. Gun at Sharp says:

"Here's a recap when spraying with HVLP

Depending on the brand of spray gun, you will see a wide range of inlet pressures to equal 10 PSI @ cap.
Having enough CFM is critical.
Spray at a closer distance.
Use a faster stroke.
Use a higher percentage of pattern overlap.
On larger re-spray areas, never use faster than the medium temperature solvents; especially with high solids clears.
Low noise doesn't mean slow gun speed.
High solids, low VOC does not constitute high viscosity.
Spray a balanced gun, i.e.: air to material ratio.
The use of HVLP is just what the Doctor ordered.
Don't buy it unless you can try it."

The recommendation to not use a fast reducer, apparently even if the temperature calls for it, is a new one for me. I haven't made any changes in reducer selection whether I use my HVLP spot or my non-HVLP full size. The MC161 HS clear that I use doesn't call for any reducer generally but does permit up to 10% retarder (again, if needed). I hadn't had a problem prior to the fender but I'll have to keep that tidbit in mind for a possible try the next time.

There shouldn't be a problem with matching up to and melting in with a pass that was done previously as long as the time is not too long. Think of doing a '60s full size Pontiac car hood in place - w/o touching the fenders with your midsection. You can't get all of it from one side. You have to do it halves from each side - unless you have those six foot long arms :o). That four foot long hood should not be a problem either. Plus it's probably narrow enough such that you can do the entire top and one side from one side if you choose. I just don't think it's the procedural things that are causing your problem - but I also don't know what might be.

Follow Ups:

• Re: Question about Orange Peel CNKS 20:05:13 07/27/05 (1)
  • Re: Question about Orange Peel Rustyj14 15:47:15 08/18/05 (0)

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