Wide tread spacing and wide grouser plates are going to assist with stability and floatation. Though I am a red (tractorially) guy I believe that all 1955 and newer crawlers are going to be about equal in usefulness. With that said the reality is condition, particularly the tracks and undercarrage. These are more expensive to repair and problematic if worn than the engine or cosmetics. From track pin/bushings to bogie wheel life and bearings, to the drive sprocket wear, the undercarriage must be serviceable. If you are not sure how to assess these, find someone who knows and have them assess the condition. Track clutches and track brakes should be included in the analysis. Do not buy a crawler with a differential and just track brakes (no clutches) early Oliver and Cleatrack machines are to be avoided for this reason. They turn, but not well, and not under load. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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