Patrick explained the hood. If the hand crank shaft sticking out of the bolster is the same diameter all the way to front, it probably has a MD type bolster and the longer SMTA hood. If the start crank shaft diameter drops toward the forward end it probably has a M or SM gas bolster. If so and the hood fits it came from a M or SM. Looks like the casting number on the center housing ends in R1, that would make a 99% chance its from a SMTA. Can't tell for sure on the R1 or crank size in the picture. 560 fenders in good condition are worth more than MTA type. I prefer the 560 type on a user if any fenders. Wide front on the tractor will cut sharper than a IH. Maybe you prefer a narrow front.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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