Hi Gene. As you can see in the pix, I have the hot wire off the battery clipped on to the light. The light does not shine unless I touch the bottom mounting bolt of the light to any bare part of the steering post. Also when I touch the light switch itself, the light will shine. I was thinking that was enough proof that the steering post and ampmeter box have good ground. RIGHT? The switch I'm using is a repro of the original 4 pos. switch. I don't have an original, but now that you mentioned it, I'll be looking for one on ebay. They list there occasionally.
I'm thinking about letting it go for now, and concentrate on getting my mag on, and getting it timed, and get the tractor running again. Maybe that will shake things up a bit in the system. After all, the tractor does need to be running before I can use John's troubleshooting chart on it. I just want to see if that needle will move any after the tractor starts up, because that needle right now is just not moving at all. There's a glitch there somewhere, and maybe that will help finding it.
Like I said before in my first post, I did have lights at one time using the new switch after rewiring the system. Then one day, POOF, lights out, and it's been like that ever since.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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