!st, thanks guys for responding to my post. This is my first time participating on a blog. It was definitely locked. If I let the clutch out in 1st, reverse, or neutral, the engine stalled. But I was able to drive in all the other gears...I tried them all. I removed the shifter as advised, and the neutral slots (if that"s what they are called) were not perfectly aligned, but not really in any gear. I slid the rails back and forth just to see how far they moved because I"ve never been into any transmission before. Then I realigned them to neutral, put the shifter back in and it worked fine. I did note that there was some wear on the center rail (2nd & 3rd?) and also the end of the shifter has been previously built up with a pretty lousy weld, and is showing signs of wearing again. I have a welder and can do some build up, but how do you know how much to add, or grind back off?
On a side note, There was some discussion in older posts regarding the mounting of the shifter on the Super M. Someone suggested that there was a 3 bolt shift tower that was easier to remove than the pin and gave better access. Someone else said that the Super M"s didn"t have that 3 bolt tower,that it was cast in to the top plate. I don"t know what year my super M is (Serial# F-7725 GJ) but it has the removable tower.
Re: the wheel shucking being from loose clamps, wouldn"t there be scraping signs on the wheels by the clamps? I looked for that and do not see any.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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