I really believe in cylinder leakage tests too, I do it all the time on auto engines. Main thing in this case is to watch for ANY reaction in the radiator when you put the pressure to the cylinder. Leave the cap off the rad when testing. It will likely volcano outta there when you get to the offending cylinder in your case. You will need to keep the motor from turning from TDC when testing. (otherwise the valves will open and you wont have any testing pressure) Tractor in high gear with brakes locked hard should do. You can get a two gauge leakage tester fairly reasonable. It wont test for cracked block or split sleeve very well however,mostly head and head gasket,and engine wear /condition. An old tractor engine can show 40-50% leakage and run just fine(ring and valve wear). A fresh hi-perf auto engine we strive for less than 5% leakage. Between cylinder leakage testing and radiator pressure testing combined with logical deductive reasoning, you should be able to narrow it down to the trouble spot and solve the issue. I would suggest you figure it out BEFORE you tear it down again to try to eliminate wasted time,parts, frustrations....Best of luck !!!!!
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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