I time them with a "digital" timing light with a tach built in ...
Never mind factory settings and marks... Grant you there a good starting point , but these engines are 50 years old and sloppy .
Run the tractor up to full RPM and adjust the dist. tell you get max RPM and lock it down.
This works best under load on the dyno but you will be happy with it this way.
If it has a belt pully throw a nice load on it and set timing down around 1000 rpm ware the motor would be working hard.
You will be surperized at the results. We have found that on non pulling tractors the light springs actually hurt performance , the advance comes in to quick.
Added compression is your friend it makes a world of differance in everyday working tractors.
I own four Farmalls . Restored. 52 Super M [ Puller ] 450 head cut Race fuel
52 W-6 Restored 8060 head cut .040 pump gas
54-Cub head cut .100 pump gas
55-Cub Restored head cut .060 pump gas
Cutting the heads on the cubs [ flat heads ] L-60 motors was a hugh power gain. I plow snow with both of them .I used to use 1st and 2nd gear only to plow. I now use 2nd and 3rd all the time .
I know this got long winded but cylinder presure also will help you get cheap easy power.
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Today's Featured Article - The 8N and the Fox - by Zane Sherman. Dec. 13 1998, Renfroe, Alabama. Last niht I dreamed about the day that I plowed the field of about 10 acres over on what Jimmy and Dandy called the Ledbetter field. I was driving the 1948 8N Ford tractor that Jimmy bought in 48 new This was prebably in about 1951 and maybe even befor the house was built. This would have made me to be about16 years old and I drove the tractor for nothing and would have paid to drive it if I had had any money which I didn't, but neit
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