I time them with a "digital" timing light with a tach built in ...
Never mind factory settings and marks... Grant you there a good starting point , but these engines are 50 years old and sloppy .
Run the tractor up to full RPM and adjust the dist. tell you get max RPM and lock it down.
This works best under load on the dyno but you will be happy with it this way.
If it has a belt pully throw a nice load on it and set timing down around 1000 rpm ware the motor would be working hard.
You will be surperized at the results. We have found that on non pulling tractors the light springs actually hurt performance , the advance comes in to quick.
Added compression is your friend it makes a world of differance in everyday working tractors.
I own four Farmalls . Restored. 52 Super M [ Puller ] 450 head cut Race fuel
52 W-6 Restored 8060 head cut .040 pump gas
54-Cub head cut .100 pump gas
55-Cub Restored head cut .060 pump gas
Cutting the heads on the cubs [ flat heads ] L-60 motors was a hugh power gain. I plow snow with both of them .I used to use 1st and 2nd gear only to plow. I now use 2nd and 3rd all the time .
I know this got long winded but cylinder presure also will help you get cheap easy power.
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Today's Featured Article - Horsepower Defined - by Staff. Indicated Horsepower This represents the power developed in the enine cylinder as obtained from the pressure in the cylinders. This is pressure obtained from an indicator which shows cylinder pressures. Indicated horsepower does not represent the actual useful power delivered by the engine. Brake Horsepower This is the actual horse power delivered by the engine to the shaft. It is equal to the "indicated horsepower" less the friction of the engine. It is useful hor
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