I think you are talking about the pinion shaft at the top of the final drive housing. To remove this shaft, you have to remove the final drive assembly from the tractor. I think the bearing would come out after the small cover over the end of the shaft is off, but there is no way to get hold of the bearing to remove it. That would do no good as far as fixing the seal problem. To do that, you must remove the final drive from the tractor, then remove the brake drum from the shaft. The brake drum is held in place with a set screw and a woodruff key. Sometimes the drums are tight on there and hard to get off. You have to rig a puller to get the drum off. Don't try to drive the shaft out, as the woodruff key will prevent the shaft from going through the bearing. Once the drum, and key are off, the shaft with the bearing will come out through the hole that has the cover with 4 bolts. While you have this off, you should also replace the seal on the transmission side as well and you may want to put new brake bands if the old ones are worn and/or oil soaked. Be careful when removing the final drives. Do one side of the tractor at a time and make sure everything is blocked up securely. These tractors can be unstable due to the offset design. When the wheels and final drives are removed, they can easily tip over if not properly cribbed up.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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