Re the system. It is not a good idea to run that wire that way. Use a test light, and put the lead to ground. Put the probe on the Positive battery post (should be light) Put the probe on the Starter relay where the battery connects (should be light!) Put the probe in the terminal on that post where the wire attaches that goes to the dash (fat 10ga wire but not a cable) (should be light) Put the probe on the other end of that wire at the amp gauge, wire terminal, not the amp gauge terminal bolt) (should be light) Put the probe on the terminal where that wire connects (should be light) Put the probe on the other amp gauge terminal, LOAD side. (should be light) Put the probe on the wire going to the Ignition switch at the amp gauge (should be light) Put the probe on the bat terminal of the ignition switch Should be light. (I'll bet this wire has a corroded terminal or bad connection) should be light. The reason your gauge is going nuts is that the whole system is now partially through the amp gauge, and part way through the extra wire. Clean every terminal and check every wire in the Probing path and you will find the issue. Do not use that wire (it was an OK bypass test, but not a solution at all. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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