Re the system. It is not a good idea to run that wire that way. Use a test light, and put the lead to ground. Put the probe on the Positive battery post (should be light) Put the probe on the Starter relay where the battery connects (should be light!) Put the probe in the terminal on that post where the wire attaches that goes to the dash (fat 10ga wire but not a cable) (should be light) Put the probe on the other end of that wire at the amp gauge, wire terminal, not the amp gauge terminal bolt) (should be light) Put the probe on the terminal where that wire connects (should be light) Put the probe on the other amp gauge terminal, LOAD side. (should be light) Put the probe on the wire going to the Ignition switch at the amp gauge (should be light) Put the probe on the bat terminal of the ignition switch Should be light. (I'll bet this wire has a corroded terminal or bad connection) should be light. The reason your gauge is going nuts is that the whole system is now partially through the amp gauge, and part way through the extra wire. Clean every terminal and check every wire in the Probing path and you will find the issue. Do not use that wire (it was an OK bypass test, but not a solution at all. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Trailering Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the fun things of summer and fall are the parades and tractor shows that go on across America. Many owners of tractors travel long distances to attend these shows and they usually take their restored iron along with them. Safe trailering practices and inspections will ensure that the event is a fun one. A good habit to develop when using a trailer is to give that �quick look over� before taking it on a trip. Before hooking up to it check the tongue for proper operation. The latche
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