The lever with no rod, with two holes, is the control lever for a belly pump, which is inside it's reservoir inside the clutch housing. You can take a sheet metal plate off the bottom, directly under the belt pulley, and look at it from the bottom.
The fill cap is up and to the right, just in front of the bottom of the gas tank. The normal fill point for a belly pump is right under the hydraulic valve.
It looks like you have Super M brakes (cast housings) so this may be a Stage I, disc brakes with belly pump, but I thought the hydraulic valve you have was with the live pump in front of the distributor. Things may have been changed over the years.
The belly pumps had dipsticks to check level, through the fill hole, but not with your setup. The drain plug will be visible from the bottom.
All major castings have date codes, month*day*year except the year is a letter. You might look at the axle housings, transmission, clutch housing, etc. and see whether most of the dates are close together. It is possible you have a newer rear end on an older front end. It does not really matter, but it will be easier to work on things if you know what you have.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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