Really, really good mowers. Biggest potential problems would be in the wobble box. As posted by GordoSd, remove the drive belt and try to turn the pulley on the back of the box. Watch the knife head. It should move in time with the pulley, no hesitation. Grab the pulley and try to wiggle it. The bearing in behind going is one of the common failures in the box. Also try to wiggle the counterweight, the one under the drive pulley. It is the back half of the front yoke that drives the sickle head. A little free play can be found here and still be OK. The box has two grease zerks, and is not oil filled. Grease the fittings SPARINGLY as specified in the manual. Over greasing blows the seals on the bearings and leads to premature failure of the bearings. There is a fellow in Aberdeen SD who sells Rowse mowers. He repairs a few hundred of these boxes every year. Does a very good job and is reasonable on his parts and labor.
If the wobble box is OK, check the breakaway housing, where the vertical shaft of the bar lift mechanism pivots. I have seen them crack around the boss that the pin mounts in. If it has a 9' bar, the bar can crack and break under the inner shoe. Only way to check that is to remove the bar and visually inspect the top of the bar, right at the furthest outboard hole. These problems I see are after many thousand of acres cut by hired men who are at times less than gentle with them.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Best Tractor? - by Staff. This recent discussion on the Tractor Talk discussion board here at the on-line magazine drew quite a bit of response. We see the question of "Which tractor is best for me?" asked quite often. We thought you might find the responses interesting. As always, the names of the people participating in the discussion have been left out - we did not request their permission to reprint their names in this article. However you can find this discussion in it's entirety in the Tractor Talk archives.
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