Piston, I changed my 41H more than 30 years ago. I used the transmission-rear end housing for a reservoir, Hy-tran is better for all tractors than the heavier oils. IH began using it with the SMTA and 300, the gears and bearings were basicly the same as the H and M, but the life of the newer ones was greatly increased. With 80-90 oil here in Minnesota it was a common problem to have a bearing loosen and spin in its housing, Hy-tran stoped that. I use hyd. motors, then you need the large reservoir to keep heat down. For filters the first one is homemade, it is a 1 inch pipe cross with plastic plugs placed in the side ports and a cow magnet suspened between them. Then a suction strainer made from parts from Northern Tool, finaly a 10 micron filter in the return line. I draw the oil from the drain at bottom of rear end and return to the check hole on left side, there I added a street ell, close nipple and Tee so it raised the oil level more than two inchs. After many thousands of hours I have been very happy with it. Did basicly the same to the WD9. Good luck, Chuck
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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