The distributor (with points adjusted to .020" gap on a high lobe of the cam) is installed onto the engine, not connected to the ignition switch, but just loose where its bolts have slots to allow it to rotate for timing. Set the ohm meter to RX1 and ground one of the leads to the distributor case (shiny metal). Touch the other lead to the connection post on the side of the distributor. This puts the points in series between the leads. As the points open, the meter will show infinate resistance. As they close, there will be near zero resistance. Adjust the position of the distributor in its slots so the place where the points just barely break open. That is the static timing position. Tighten it down attach cap and wires, and attach ignition wires. Keep us informed, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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