The scoop as I see it. The Ignition button (pull on, push in off) with a mushroom head/knob should never get hot -ever- . There are two reasons for it to do so. If the coil wire is drawing excessive current because of a shorted coil, wire touching something, or other improper connection. The only wire outgoing from the ignition button/switch is the coil wire, and it goes to a ballast resistor if 12v and the coil is for use with a resistor. or directly to the coil if it is 12v with a coil that needs no resistor, or if it is 6v. The other reason is the switch itself that can go bad and have high resistance getting hot. It happens! If the coil is correct, and it had run with the setup, I would suspect the switch being bad. The starter switch should not get hot either. If it does, it is in need of replacement. (or the starter is dragging internally from bad bearings, or a shorted winding). The starter draw measured with a cheap hold to the cable meter should be no more than 300 to 350 amps. if more suspect the starter. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor: Conclusion - by Anthony West. In the last piece I mentioned that Nuffield had reached the stage where they had chosen to drop the "Universal" from production. The two new models were given three figure numbers, instead of "three" and "four". Model numbers were introduced to help farmers and dealers instantly recognize the engine size and horsepower of the tractor, the 4/60 had a four cylinder diesel engine which developed 60 bhp at 2,000 rpm. The 3/42 had a 3 cylinder diesel engine which produced 42 bhp at 2,000 rpm. Th
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