ih560 said: Yes, the item you have circled is the oil cooler, and your engine is the D360 instead of the D358. It is fairly common for those oil coolers to fail and leak coolant into the oil. The good news is, the D360 is less likely to cavitate than the D358, bur it is still possible just not as likely. I would start with the oil cooler, and work from there. It is fairly easy to remove and you should be able to pressure test it without too much work.
To pressure test it, would I need to remove it and take it to a radiator type repair shop?? How might I do that myself?
If in fact, this cooler is the culpret, would I simply replace it or is that something a radiator type shop can weld/solder/recore like an auto radiator??
I'm more optimistic with the comment about D360 vs D358!! but I will still not get my hopes up until problem is verified!!
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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