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Done! ...or maybe not...


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Posted by David in UT on October 29, 2003 at 06:56:07 from (63.187.41.165):

Hi all,

With numerous contributions from you and the ytmag website, I successfully turned over my first engine rebuild on a '50 C this last weekend. It purrs! I was feeling quite proud of myself, and was about to take it for its maiden voyage when I found I couldn't get it in gear. During the rebuild, I had the clutch rebuilt...new springs, new friction plate, blasted and painted, etc. After spending a few hours in archives, I now know that it was behaving as if the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel. I could see through the inspection port that the pressure plate was releasing as it should, but the shaft wasn't coming free at all.

So, I did a few things to break it free...blocked up the clutch pedal for a day, put her in 4th, and rocked her back and forth until she moved. Great, I thought, I've fixed it! Well, not so fast...

When the engine is turning, I still cannot get into any gear without gnashing of teeth. I can, however, start the tractor in any gear with the clutch pedal depressed. It does move at all, and when I release the pedal it engages the gear as you would expect. But, once you depress the pedal again, and take it out of the gear you started in, it's clear that the tranny shaft continues to rotate because it's impossible to get into a different gear.

So, if this really were a case of a friction plate stuck to the flywheel, when I started it in gear, it should move, right? Given that, I have a new theory -- I think I've got a friction plate that's just a bit too thick. When the tranny is engaged and the clutch disengaged, there's enough resistance from the rear end that the friction plate will slide around the flywheel. When I engage the clutch fully, it transmits power normally. Then, when I disengage the clutch once more, and the tractor stops moving, the rear end resistance again stops the friction plate. But, when I take it out of gear, now all the rear end resistance goes away, and the extra thickness of the friction plate contacts the flywheel enough to spin it up. Does that make sense to anyone else?

I've trying to keep from having to split the tractor again, but I think I've talked myself into that as the only option... Anything else I could be missing?

(I've already adjusted the throw out linkage to be as aggressive as possible...)

Many thanks,

- David


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