Here's a secret I'll share with my fellow gear-heads.Back when I was racing and restoring cars, I discovered a labor free method to remove rust from steel and cast iron. I've cleaned intake and exhaust manifolds, brake drums, bumper brackets and many other steel or iron items this way. Take a plastic bucket or trash can and fill to a level with water that will submerge your parts. Slowly add Hydrochloric Acid (Muratic Acid)to about 25% volume. CAUTION: ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER --- NOT WATER TO ACID. If done wrong, it will pour itself on you! Muratic Acid is less prone than Sulphuric Acid and some others, for example. Strength isn't critical except to get it strong enough to do the job. Add your parts to the solution and cover with the lid. Preferably do outside to avoid the fumes. Leave it for a few days. It won't attack the steel or iron to any great degree. I've let parts soak for days and it removed the paint and other coatings that were not too thick. It left a beautiful, uniform grey matte finish. As the muratic acid dissolves the iron oxide, the solution will reach an equilibrium with the ferric chloride, and will not attack the metal any more. If it stops working, add more acid. The acid will convert the iron oxide to ferric chloride and will minimally affect the non-rusted part. Of course, if there is pitting caused by the heavy rust, the pitting won't go away just be cleaned to the bottom of the pit. When removing from the solution wash with water and get dried as fast as possible. This surface is so chemically active that you will watch it turn rusty brown in a few seconds. After drying, paint with the finish that you prefer. Caution, any aluminum or brass fittings in the steel or iron parts will violently be dissolved by the acid. Remove them, or loose them. Sure beats sandblasting. If you have areas that will trap moisture, use a rinse with baking soda to neutalize the acid and then use a final clear water rinse. Don't forget - love your mother. Don't pollute. Ken McWilliams
Dayton, OH
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