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Repair of Egged-Out Fittings.

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bbott

04-12-2000 17:07:39




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I've got an ancient JD 400 backhoe that has seen it's share of use and abuse. Most all the bores for the front and rear buckets are egged out pretty bad... and I was pondering the following..

(short story begins here)

When I was just out of high school I was working as a gopher for some old time millwrights.. I watched them pour in-place babbit bearings on sawmill shafts.. The only tools needed were a budd tip, a babbit pot and some special clay for forming a dam around the shaft & bearing...

Well.. I was wondering if I couldn't use the same method to 'tighten' up the old backhoe... Use good 4X knife babbit and use it to restore the fit...

Yes, I know it wouldn't really be proper for a production machine.. but this is just an old farmstead machine now..

Has anyone else tried this ? Success ? Failure ?
Wasting my time ? Any and all advice appreciated.

Thanks..

bbott

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been there, done that

06-09-2004 23:22:57




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
I melted down some old engine bearings for the babbit and poured it around the pins to tighten up an old 310a backhoe, slid the pins out and drilled the alemite holes out and replaced the alemites and greased er' up. Under normal use it lasted me 6 months or so in the high weight bearing apps and am still using it in the lighter applications. At the strongest leverage points It got sloppy fairly quick. Probly best to drill and put new bushings into action here.

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Fred

04-13-2000 07:06:25




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
Hi bbot from Fred
I personally think that even high speed babbit (hard) wouldn't hold up to that. The bushings and pins both are hardened steel. You might try welding up some of the "egg" and dressing it with a die grinder, that'd help some and probably be time better spent IMHO. You could use a 90-11018 LH rod and it'd be hard. Let us know your results whichever way you go. Fred



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Tom R

04-13-2000 18:36:45




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 Re: Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to Fred, 04-13-2000 07:06:25  
I go along with Fred on this. I have had fairly good results with welding around either a piece of carbon, brass or copper rod slightly larger than the pin, this will leave you with very little grinding to do. The weld won't stick to any of the materials mentioned so it will do a fair job of maintain the hole and you can remove it when you are through welding . I would probably get a brass rod turned to a diameter that would give the pin clearance you need and then put it through the holes on both sides to assure your bore alignment will be straight, then weld around the rod as needed.
Tom R.

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I agree..

04-13-2000 07:54:13




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 Re: Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to Fred, 04-13-2000 07:06:25  
about the babbit material in this application. As well there would be an alignment problem. Another way to do it would be to rent a roto-broach. Hog out the hole past the edge of the egg-shape, and get some hardened bushings machined. Take the time to find the true centres so that the cylinders won't bind. Don't forget to drill a grease hole in the bushing. Long term repair. Good luck!



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al

04-13-2000 18:50:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to I agree.., 04-13-2000 07:54:13  
The proper way although it may be expensive is portable line boring. You tack weld a portable unit to the machine,build up the hole with solid wire mig or 7018 then bore the weld out to original dimension. Or I like to find a replaceable hardened bushing,bore it to that size [pressfit]and press it in.Then you just have to replace it at a later date if it wears.

Al



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you're right...

04-13-2000 19:55:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to al, 04-13-2000 18:50:22  
I was just suggesting a cheaper route.



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Nope, Brass isn't Strong enough!

04-13-2000 06:10:48




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
None of the machine shops I talked to would recommend brass bushings.. There is a LOT of pressure on those bushings..
Do as above suggested.. weld in thick wall pipe. Press a bushing from the backhoe supply places into the pipe. You might need a lathe to make everything fit.
Cost at a machine shop.. $500 and up..
Or, you could go buy a lathe like I did..



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HOW ABOUT NEW CYLINDERS and also.....

04-13-2000 17:05:21




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 Re: Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to Nope, Brass isn't Strong enough!, 04-13-2000 06:10:48  
FOR THAT PRICE, LETS SEE 4 TO 6 NEW CYLINDERS $2000 TO $3000 OR BETTER STILL; NEW LOADER $3000-$5000.BY THE WAY WE REBUILT TWO CYLINDERS LAST WEEK (2"x 18"@3000psi) AND THEY HAD THREADED BRASS SLEEVES/BUSHINGS ON THEIR ENDS.So I believe brass does work,AT LEAST ON THESE.GOOD LUCK.



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ole frank

04-13-2000 02:25:22




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
I just welded in the holes on my old back ho bucket and pin openings.then made new pins.the holes dont have to be perfict. they work alot better. worked for me.



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steve from mo

04-12-2000 20:12:59




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
Tyler recently noted he had repaired some pivot points on his loader by welding in thick wall tubing where the original holes were stretched out. I don't remember if he also used new pins to fit the I.D. of the tubing or if the tubing fit the old pins. The thick wall tubing with a grease fitting would probably be equal to the OEM bushing.



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MIGHT HAVE SOME BUSHINGS OF BRASS TURNED...

04-12-2000 18:54:07




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 Re: Repair of Egged-Out Fittings. in reply to bbott, 04-12-2000 17:07:39  
CHECK WITH A MACHINIST.I DON'T THINK THE BABBIT WILL HOLD.GOOD LUCK. B.T.W. IF THE BORES ARE "HOGGED" OUT THAT BAD,CHANCES ARE THE WHOLE CYLINDER IS PROBABLY JUST ABOUT SHOT.MIGHT BE BETTER TO PRICE SOME NEW OR REBUILT CYLINDERS.



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