Tune up gone bad

When I worked on points for the first time in my life on my TO-35 (I correctly figured out it was a points problem), I wasn't quite sure about something as I was re-installing.

So I drove over to a friend's house to ask him, and as soon as I stepped out with the distributor in my hand and his face dropped I knew I had screwed up.

"Well, you're going to learn how to time a tractor, too" was the first words out of his mouth.

I had a condenser fail once that took me a while to find. Luckily I dug the old one out out of the trash and swapped it out. That was on a 1972 Chevelle.

3) Next, place your voltmeter or test lamp over on the coils low (to distributor) terminal side, turn her on and crank the engine over.

4) A test lamp there should flash ON (when points are open) and OFF (when points are closed) as the engine is cranked slowly.

5a) If the lamp never comes on there, the coils primary is bad/open,,,,, ,,,,or the points are never opening,,,,, ,,,or theres a shorted/bad condensor (remove its lead to points and see if lamp comes on, if so, bad shorted condensor or its wiring),,,,, ,,or the points wire is shorted,,,,, ,,or the distributors side pass thru stud is grounded (use ohm meter to test that),,,,, ,,,or the points may have a shorted spring.

5b) If the lamp never goes off as engines cranked, the points are not closing or are bad,,,,, ,,or the wire or circuit is missing from the distributor to the points,,,,,or the distributors not well grounded to the tractor.

She cant fire the coil unless its low side is getting a conductive ground return path via closed points and then the circuit is open when the points open.

Be sure the condensor or its wiring is NOT shorted out and see if the lite comes on (when points open) with the condensor disconnected. If removing the condensor makes her spark, replace the condensor.

John T

Previous posters have covered most of the stuff you need to check: EXACT same configuation on the points set, make sure the wire is not touching ground anywhere, check gap on high spot of any lobe, etc. If you can't get the full gap on those points, the points may be defective.

Last thing, if you get it gapped right, and still no spark, either spray the points with electric contact cleaner (leaves no residue) or carefully clean the surfaces with a CLEAN paper towel. If the feeler gage had oil on it, you may have coated the points, and that can prevent contact.

go on line and look up "tuning up a car with a points". there are lots of good site that will show you how to do it.
Walt

And after you install them run some clean paper between them to remove oily residue.Make sure the points close on it and pull it through with some tension. All it takes is an undectable amount to keep them from working.

If your loader setup is like mine on my I2444 you really have to be a contortionist to even see the points. I always remove the distributor and replace them on the bench. Locate the timing marks and turn the engine until they line up. (It realy does not make any difference if it on #1 or # 4 as long as you keep track of which one it is when you remove the distributor.) Remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. You will need to reinstall the distributor with rotor pointing in same direction. Remove the tachourmeter drive cable. Remove the primary wire. Remove the two bolts and clamps. Slide the distributor out.

To install, point the rotor the same as it was when you removed it. The primary wire connector should point out away from the engine block. Loosely install the two bolts with clamps. Install the primary wire. Turn the distribtor clockwise until the primary connector is is down at about 45 degrees. Install the coil wire in the coil and hold the other end about 1/2" away from a good ground. Turn on the ignition switch. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise until you just get a spark. Repeat as necessary until you stop rotating just when you get the spark. Snug the clamps in this position.You should be within a degree or two of the correct timing when the engine is running. Finish assembling and recheck with a timing light.

I WAS running before you "fixed" it, right?

If so, get a good set of points, that can be correctly gapped, and look for something you may have inadvertantly shorted in the points/condesor/insulated stud that passes through the distributor body area.

A bad "new" condensor is a possibility, too.

(NO, I'm not picking on you! In my shop hangs a large sign "If it ain't broke, we'll fix it 'til it is!)

What is the make and part # of the points you were sold? Any problems, I'd seek out the nearest CNH dealer, and get an OEM set.

NOTE... For long life, and retaining the correct timing and dwell, the point gap must be EXACT, HOWEVER, if the points are actually closing and are actually opening, to nearly their correct gap, you SHOULD have spark, unless you've also mucked something else up.

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