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Back to the B

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Lanse

02-10-2008 09:44:18




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Allright, im still here, LOL.

The Carb is still soaking, and i got a can of paint stripper since im told it works as good as carb clenaer. The carb is still soaking in the cleaner i got a few days ago, but its gonna take a while. I can only do half of either the top or bottom half of the carb at a time, and each takes 3-4 days since the stuff isnt very powerful. I also got more primer and Allis Chalmers Orange for it. Yeah, Yeah, Yeah, i couldnt resist :-)
The TSC people sold my mom the wrong carb kit (had her pick it up on her way home from work) and they diddnt have the right one in stock, so i'll have to call them Monday with the number and they'll order it, then it'll be in in 10 days. The good news is the carb should be well clenaed by then, LOL.

I also got Green vinyl for the seat (close enough) i kinda like the color, and they had limited options anyway. I also picked up a couple bags of cotton "stuffing" since they diddnt have the foam stuff, so im assuming i'll have to put that in bags in the seat in case water gets in there. When it warms up (its 20 or so now) i'll start painting. Anyone have any advice on the seat?? The engine is soaking in PB right now, and it sorta budged!!!!!

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Old Ford Mechanic

02-10-2008 17:01:46




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
Lanse you can go to an Autozone or Advance Auto Parts store and buy carb cleaner.It comes in a one gallon pail with a basket to hold your parts.The brand i like is " Berryman's Chem Dip ".Another good brand is made by "Gunk".Dissasemble your carb and soak it overnight in one of these solutions and it will be clean.Just spray the passages with aerosol carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air then install your kit.A gallon pail of the cleaner will cost about 15 bucks and can be used many times.

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Lanse

02-10-2008 17:46:06




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Old Ford Mechanic, 02-10-2008 17:01:46  
Ok, thanks. I printed that out. I heard paint stripper works good so i figured i'd try it first. Im assuming NAPA would also have it??



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Alex-41JDb

02-10-2008 14:15:55




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
If you mail that carb to me lanse i can get it rebuilt for 50 or less at a local shop, guys great. Just holler if interested. Done right the first time is better than decent the 6th time :)



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Lanse

02-10-2008 17:44:16




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Alex-41JDb, 02-10-2008 14:15:55  
Thanks Alex, theres a shop near here that'll be about the same, but i want to try this myself, i like to learn new things. Thanks for the offer though :-)



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Alex-41JDb

02-10-2008 14:16:33




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Alex-41JDb, 02-10-2008 14:15:55  
Actually if you have the kit it would be a lot less.



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Alex-41JDb

02-10-2008 14:16:31




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Alex-41JDb, 02-10-2008 14:15:55  
Actually if you have the kit it would be a lot less.



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ArleninOr

02-10-2008 11:59:01




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
Lanse put your favorite music on and rock that girl LOL



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Lanse

02-10-2008 12:21:56




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to ArleninOr, 02-10-2008 11:59:01  
LOL will do :-)



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onefarmer

02-10-2008 11:04:11




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
Hey Lanse,

Can you get the crank to engage in a downward motion? If so hang some weights from it. This will keep constant pressure on the engine but not so much to damage anything.



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Lanse

02-10-2008 11:25:21




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to onefarmer, 02-10-2008 11:04:11  
Like what?? Hang a cement block (20 lbs or so) on there??



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onefarmer

02-10-2008 20:31:27




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 11:25:21  
I think you'd want it to be 100# or more to get the desired effect. Iron tractor weights or such. Or figure a way to make the crank longer. You know a longer lever to hang the weight from



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135 Fan

02-10-2008 10:41:03




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
Why don't you try looking somewhere else to get the right foam and material for the seat? The stuffing will just squish out. The seat won't be needed until you get it running. How did the engine sort of budge? You don't want to force it too much. Dave



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Lanse

02-10-2008 10:50:17




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to 135 Fan, 02-10-2008 10:41:03  
I may still do that, but Wally world diddnt have it (that doesnt happen very often, LOL) but i'll keep looking.



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Mathias NY

02-10-2008 13:39:50




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 10:50:17  
Any fabric type store should carry what you are looking for. Have you ever heard of a craft store like JoAnne Fabrics? They are a chain of stores around here. My dad just made a couple of vintage snowmobile seats with supplies from there.



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JT

02-10-2008 13:05:58




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 10:50:17  
Lanse,
go to a seat upholstery shop and see if they might have some peices of the dense seat foam you are looking for
Jim



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JT

02-10-2008 10:15:49




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
Lanse,
I know this your tractor and you can do it yor way, but I will make two sggestions on your two worrys right now, first of all, I would not use paint stripper on your carb, that stuff is caustic and can do damage to the cast iron in your carb, get a small wire brush, some good spray carb cleaner, some compressed air, some tag wire, and use that to clean it.Or if it real bad you could use some easy off oven cleaner, but again, use it sparingly.
And as for soaking your engine in PB, I had an H that was locked up, used transmission fluid as Old had suggested, it took two weeks to get 3 of the 4 cylinders freed up. Good luck little buddy.
Jim

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Lanse

02-10-2008 10:19:22




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to JT, 02-10-2008 10:15:49  
Thanks Jim!! Im gonna use the carb cleaner for the carb, i got the paint stripper for the sediment bowl and the thermostat housing mostally, both things that are VERY badly rusted.



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IaGary

02-10-2008 09:58:51




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 09:44:18  
If it sorta budged you may win yet.

Don't keep trying to go the same way.

Rock the engine back and forth.

Gary



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Lanse

02-10-2008 10:11:48




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to IaGary, 02-10-2008 09:58:51  
Will do. The crank went up some last night, so i'll put it in third and rock the tire forth and back.



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Oldcraneguy

02-10-2008 10:25:45




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 10:11:48  
Question...is there any place you can get a pry bar into the flywheel ringear? Ive always found I get more leverage there than anywhere else, Also (you prob already did this)make sure to clean the bores above the pistons, a cup brush on a disc grinder works ok for that..not sure but Im thinkin I read somewhere that you had the head off. Don



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Lanse

02-10-2008 10:45:18




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Oldcraneguy, 02-10-2008 10:25:45  
Yes, the head is off. This old monstor doesnt have a ring gear, no starter. Its a 1939, crank start only. There is s hole in the flywheel (manfacturer dilled) but because of where the engine stopped, i cant get a pry bar in there. Ive tried though. The best thing i can do is to rock the tire or pull on that crank.



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super99

02-10-2008 13:44:56




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to Lanse, 02-10-2008 10:45:18  
Sounds like you are gaining on it. Chris



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Lanse

02-10-2008 17:47:50




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 Re: Back to the B in reply to super99, 02-10-2008 13:44:56  
slow but sure. Its costing less sofar then what my estimates ran



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