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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Day 2

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Lanse

01-25-2008 20:34:48




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No roy, i dont intend to do that ever again :-)

My Dad (the one who got me the kubota) thinks im off my rocker, plumb crazy for buying it. His face went blank when i showed him the crank, and that it was stuck. I explained what stuck ment and he rolled his eyes, LOL. Well, if i let what people said about my hobby effect me i wouldnt have a tractor, LOL.

Anyway, i went out at 4:30 this morning to begin sanding. Got the hood ready to prime on sunday when it hits the mid 40s. Went to TSC and looked over carb kits, they had half a dozen for AC tractors without really specifing what models, and there was no body around, so ill have to go back later. Got 2 quarts of ATF and sent old an email (didja get it?) a few mins ago. Got a can of engine degreaser (although paint thinner also works) and a can of PB blaster, and i found a 7/8 of a can of the stuff in the barn today, from someone who broke our door and left what we needed to fix it and ran for the highway. Someone here on this site gave me a operators manuel, a service manuel, and a parts manuel that he no longer needed, you guys are the best. I also took an offer for a carborator for it.

Now, the radiator has a flimsy tin like cap on it, is it pressurised?? It looks un pressurised to me but i dont know. Its a 1939 model.

Also, the gas tank has surface rust and not much of it. There is nothing between the cap and the tank, all there is is a hole there. Im not even sure it'll need anything, just looks like the inside of a old galvanised gas can.

The sediment bowl on the fuel filter is rust covered, and i intended to replace it, but with TSC's prices around $45 i think i'll try to clean it first, LOL. Any ideas?? Im thinking paint thinner and a rag.

I have decided to use the jacking it up as a last method since some of you guys said it could result in rod damage.

I pulled the air cleaner, and wiped all grime, rust, etc. Anyway, i cant seem to get the bowl off the bottom, a light tap from a rubber mallet and some Liquid wrench couldnt coax it and i dont want to try anything extreme. Any ideas?? Am i not doing something right like the oil filler cap i spun for 10 mins before realising it lifts right off, doesnt unscrew (drrrr).

Has anyone here used Vinegar to remove rust or grime?? I think its worth a try.

Kansas cockshutt, i dont think phosforic acid will be nessicary, but if it is, thanks for the warnings, i definatially understand. :-]

Well back at it tomorrow!!!Hope to get those brake levers moving, more LW today. The cultivator rack removal is coming along, the harder side is off.

Will take some pics tomorrow and post 'em.

One more thing,

Does anyone need: (i can email pics)

Part of a cultivator?? It looks kinda nice in good shape. It is the part that phisicially attatches to the tractor.

steering wheels from an AC B?? I have 2 extras
A front axle (the man i got it from included it because the current axle has a plate welded to it for moving wagons and such but i think i'll leave it)

Or a oil pressure guage, i think. Looks really old, i found it this morning under the radiator. Orignal possibly??? Mabey???

How about an Amp guage off a parts torque tube?? I know i wont need that. It is like new.

Steering parts, lots of extras.

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Roy in georgia

01-26-2008 15:31:38




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
I was just poking a little fun at you just wanted you to know we all are keeping track of your progress and interested in your findings and disappointments as they come up I haven't gotten around to putting that gas tank on e-bay but it sounds like you don't need it anyway

best of luck Roy



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Rickey H

01-26-2008 14:45:21




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
If you need any tranmission or rearend parts let me know, I have both, no wheels. trying to help, Rickey (KY)



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Lanse

01-26-2008 17:47:39




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Rickey H, 01-26-2008 14:45:21  
Okay, i sure will. I'll write down your name and e-mail. I dont have a clue about the condition of the rearend.



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dobber

01-26-2008 12:12:51




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
The home supply discount places or automotive paint stores will have MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) that will help disolve gum and varnish in gas tank or good for soaking carb or sediment bowl in too. NAPA or TSC should have just sediment bowl gaskets and screens too if your valve is good not leaking. The phosphoric acid will work to help protect gas tank some and protect other metal before priming and painting.

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T_Bone

01-26-2008 10:30:02




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Hi Lanse,

Vinegar disolves rust. Any type of vinegar. Turns the rust to a black oxide that can be washed off. May take a couple days depending on the temperature.

T_Bone



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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:47:57




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to T_Bone, 01-26-2008 10:30:02  
What do ya think if it is about 20 out now??? Would it be advisiable to buy a few gallons of vinegar and putting them in the gas tank???



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T_Bone

01-26-2008 16:57:49




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-26-2008 10:47:57  
Hi Lanse,

Na it won"t do too much at 20º, about 70º minimum. On a gas tank. I"d add some sand/small gravel and strap it too a cement mixer for a couple hours. This would clean out even the hardest of rust.

T_Bone



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fixerupper

01-26-2008 09:01:33




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Lanse, my dad was never a mechanical type of guy so he too has rolled his eyes at some of the "junkers" I have had in the shop.

Needless to say I haven't had any support from him on this subject, but he will give a compliment when the old junker rolls back out looking and running like new. The ironic part of it is if I'm working on one of the tractors he bought new and farmed with fifty or sixty years ago, then it's a pretty good tractor and it's worth the effort.

Keep up the good work. Not many young men your age are able to do what you are doing. The rewards are coming.Jim

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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:48:33




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to fixerupper, 01-26-2008 09:01:33  
Thanks alot!!



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Mathias NY

01-26-2008 06:52:04




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Congratulations, you are making excellent progress on the first step of any project: Unbounded enthusiasum. The second step will probably hit in a couple weeks: Total disillusionment.

Now that I've said that bad joke, it sounds like you are making great progress. Be sure not to rush things too much. My experience tells me that I break expensive things when I am in too much of a hurry.

A note on the sanding of the sheet metal, have you considered a rust proofing? If you don't have access to a sand blaster to get the rust out of the sheet metal, you will probably want to treat it with something. Otherwise it might return an cause the paint to bubble. Its not a big deal, but its one of those things that will annoy you once the project is done.

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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:49:43




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Mathias NY, 01-26-2008 06:52:04  
Never thought about it, but i will. I primed it this morning.



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Rex in Australia

01-26-2008 02:00:41




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Keep going Lanse, I just spent the day at a rally near here and saw a nicely tidied up B that makes mine look quite sad in comparison. Funny thing was I checked the serial number and they are only 3 digits different! Anyway it has given me hope for getting mine prettied up one day. But remember, slowly slowly. I know an old bloke who did a fantastic job restoring an old British car once. But he treated it as a job and was finished before he knew it. Don't think he had time to enjoy the job, and I know he regretted it.
All the best to you, I could use some of those parts but it's a bit far to Australia from there.
God Bless,
Rex

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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:51:13




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Rex in Australia, 01-26-2008 02:00:41  
Yeah, a little far :-) Thanks alot. I am not really hurring im just working at my own pace. Things are just going fast.



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trucker40

01-26-2008 01:26:05




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
I went back and looked at Day One and see you allready have Kerosene in it.After thinking about it the jack might work if you did it like this just put a little pressure,not raise the wheels up enough to come off the floor or if you do come off the floor not much.Another way is jack up right rear wheel if you can get the transmission in a gear then every time you walk by the tractor lean on the back tire both ways.If you leave the kerosene and whatever else in there when you do this it might work.I broke a tractor loose by jacking up the back wheel before but it took a couple of weeks pouring diesel and ATF and WD 40 in it and pushing on the tire every time I walked past it.I was in a hurry because somebody wanted to buy it if it ran.It took a long time to get it running.You just dont want to get real rough with it no matter what you do.Just remember to be patient.The more patient that you are the less you will need to spend on parts,then when you need parts look in lots of places for them.TSC is not the only place that sells tractor parts.You dont need a hammer much.Hide all the big hammers and cheater pipes,that will save you money too.After you try every thing else first,then it may be allright to get a hammer or a small cheater pipe say not longer than 3 foot long.That dead blow hammer would be a good idea.Keep squirtin penetrating oil every day everywhere its got something you think is stuck.After about day five of squirting penetrating oil you might want to start thinking about doing something different if its not working.Sometimes you can break stuff loose with a propane torch.Its better to start with a propane torch and heat it up first.Then spend another week squirting it with pentrating oil before you get the big torch out.

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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:55:46




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to trucker40, 01-26-2008 01:26:05  
will do, thanks!!



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Old Ford Mechanic

01-25-2008 23:13:58




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Lanse,I would hang on to those extra parts if i were you.The torque tube with the starter mount could come in very handy someday.The other parts could be used to trade for something else you will need also.You can never have enough parts for an antique tractor.Also the cultivator even if not complete is valuble as those are getting hard to find also.I have a 1950 Model "B" that has had the cultivator mounted on it for the last 12 to 15 years.I leave it on to plow my garden with,it does a superb job.It belonged to my dad and he gave it to before he passed away and money cannot buy it.You picked a great tractor to restore.Take your time and learn as you go.Be sure to take plenty of pictures of your project.They will someday impress your children and you as you look back.Good luck Lanse.

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Lanse

01-26-2008 10:57:09




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Old Ford Mechanic, 01-25-2008 23:13:58  
Im planning to sell things as i find out i dont need them. Allready have a couple guages and a drawbar and a few other things in the photo adds



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trucker40

01-25-2008 22:50:48




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Its maybe worth a try at an auto parts store like OReilys for the sediment bowl.Keep spraying the brakes with penetrating oil.I dont know if vinegar would take grease off but I have heard it helps break pistons loose,never tried it myself.If you are trying to break pistons loose,depending on how tight they are stuck,you may want to put something like diesel in on top of them rather than ATF or a mixture of ATF and diesel.That may not even work.

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Andy Motteberg

01-25-2008 21:38:42




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
If you cannot fix your sediment bowl, I think I might have one out here that came off my Farmall H. It is the same on the AC.



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Dale B

01-25-2008 21:36:52




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
On your sediment bowl , soak all the parts in Lacquer thinner, it actually melts the old goop. It has alchohol and acetone in it. Paint thinner is only good on oil and grease. When you get the glass bowl off, use the lac thin and medium steel wool to clean it , it'll look like new



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DJD-Man

01-25-2008 21:33:37




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Lanse good for you on your purchase. Like others said take your time and build a relationship with that tractor. Oven cleaner works good on old greasy parts, it will strip paint also so watch out if there is any good paint left on there. Paint stripper works good also. Find kind you like. Citristrip works good. Put on let sit and wipe off in awhile. Hit with wire wheels or 3m pads to take the bulk of the paint off. I usually pull off all parts and toss in a pile then sandblast all of them after inspection. Just go slow and remember things, make notes or shoot alot of pics which you can put on here in the spare time. No need to rush the primer thing on that hood yet. In a year project now and almost complete and my hood is not primed yet.

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Andy Motteberg

01-25-2008 20:58:17




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 Re: Day 2 in reply to Lanse, 01-25-2008 20:34:48  
Wow, it sounds like you will have it running in a few days! ;) Let me know if the ATF works, I've tried it and it has never worked for me so far. I've used MAG 1, Valvoline and Holiday brand ATF with no luck. :( Good luck with it! Andy.



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