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cutting torches, Harris or Victor

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Don c

01-18-2008 11:47:35




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First, I don't have one now, have had, just for own use in my garage. Which one do you like and why, also what do you use as fuel, propane or acetelene, which is hotter and which one is best for all around small jobs. Thanks for answers. Don c




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T_Bone

01-19-2008 10:51:17




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
Hi Don,

Theres nothing finner than a Victor 100 torch. Small body for great hand control and less hand fatique. A with a 3/16"x25ft hose works well for shop use. The torch is rated for 1-1/2" cutting or brazing 1/2" plate. Great quality and will last a very long time.
Nothing wrong with other brands other than the large mxing body size is like using a club.

Don't confuse Oxy/Gas combinations with a Air/Gas mix. Pure Oxygen greatly increases flame tempature.

Example: Proapne/Air = 2825ºF

Acet/Oxy= 5900ºF

Propane/Oxy= 4580ºF

Propaylene/Oxy= 5900ºF

Mapp/Oxy=5300ºF

Acet/Oxy has a huge welding/cutting advantage as it requires less flame spread for the same BTU reqirement thus will cost less perunit(cft).

For production welding/brazing/cutting then Propaylene would be a consideration to keep costs down. For a small shop that uses 2 cylinders of Acetylene year, buy the Acetylene.

I've included my thoughts on Cutting, Brazing Misconceptions found on the Tool Forum archives:

Original File: 11/10/07
This is probably a great time to clear up some misconceptions on Cutting, Brazing and Rosebuds, that alot of welders have.
All the information can be applied to cutting, brazing, fusion or heating, execpt where noted:

Backfire is 99% caused by to much fuel being supplied for a too small of a orifice size, ie; using the wrong sized rosebud or cutting tip for the amount of output heat required. This is the first indication that the mixing chamber pressures are NOT set correct and the pressures are set too high for the given orifice size.
All cutting/heating orifices have a designed pressure rating that's stated from the mfg as the orifice tip body is cooled by the gases flowing from the orifice while in use.
Exceeding the designed orifice pressure rating will cause the ignited acetylene gas to leave the face of the tip body, thus at the same time the flame will add excessive oxygen (oxygen that is obtained from the surrounding air) to the actylene gas that will cause the flame to momentary extinguish, then as the mixed gas cools it reigintes and causes a small explosion as it reignites thus you here the "bang" or poping noise and this condition is called backfire and can be very dangerous.
When the backfire is not corrected by lowering the fuels pressure or volume, acetylene being the fuel in this case, then another EXTREAMLY DANGEROUS condtion will occur called flashback.

Flashback is where the flame that contains oxygen and fuel, is sucked back inside the mixing chamber and will cause a EXPLOSION if not quickly corrected by shutting off the source of oxygen and then shutting of the fuel. Turn off the cylinders in that order as three conditons are generaly considered to cause a explosion, that being oxygen, fuel and a source of ignition.

I added volume to my descriptions as well as pressure because there are some fuels that can explode under the same conditions without any warnings as I described above.

Weld Fusion: is where two meatls are joined together by melting a equal amount of molten metal from each piece, either with or without the additon of a compatiable filler metal.

Never run Acetylene above 15psi for any reason!
A drip of liquid black goo from the tip, (ie;runny nose), is usually caused by condensastion mixing with the by-products of combustion then dripping from the tip face. This condition is most likely caused by a air leak into the mixing chamber or tip connections.
Fact: Acetone is a combustitable fuel. You will usually smell acetone while using a touch because the acetylene tank is suppling too much volume of gas for a given tank size for the amount of fuel demand of the mixing chamber and tip OR the the cylinder has been layed on it's side and has not been allowed to stabilize after returning the cylinder to the vertical position. Stablize a vertical acetylene cylinder for 12hrs before using the fuel!
Using too much preheat for the thickness of metal your cutting along with a dirty cutting tip will cause problems.
It's most likely your cutting speed is also too slow but without correcting the first two problems, you will not be able to tell.

What happens when you use too much preheat? The molten metal is very liquid in width and when you try to blow the heated molten puddle with oxygen, the puddle runs to the back of the direction your cutting and reforms a weak bond behind your cutting tip. This new molten puddle is high enriched oxygen and carbon making it very hard and brittle thus when your try to reheat this area it takes longer to preheat as well resist being blown out by the oxygen from the hardness of the metal and will cause molten metal too blow out and back onto the cutter.

With the correct preheat flame temperature the molten puddle will not form as wide thus you will achive a narrow cut without any molten puddle run back.

Using a dirty cutting tip, several problems arise. First with the preheat orifices drity you will not achive a even preheat to start the cut. It will take more preheat to start the cut with a dirty tip than with a clean tip. Second once preheat has been established then the if the center tip orifice is not cleaned then slag will collect on the backside of the base metal and the cut face will be ragged.

The above problems will cause a slower forward cutting speed thus once again cause base metal over heating allowing the harden slag to refrom behind the cutting tip.

The cleanest cut comes from a clean tip. After you clean all the orifice bores in the tip, fire up the torch and set flame for cutting, then depress the cutting lever and observe the flame.

There should be a long very "uniform" inner flame cutting cone. If that inner cone is not "very" uniform then your cut will be ragged just like the flame cone is and the back of the metal will have slag. Reclean the center orifice until it's very uniform.

A cut with a clean tip will have a very smooth cut surface with very little (if any) slag on the backside of the cut. If either one of these is not present reclean the tip.

The center bore orifice can get deformed and the tip needs replaced or cut off. It's really important to hold the cleaning file straight in the bore hole and just removing enough material to clean the bore to make the tip last a long
time.

I've never used a new tip that was clean enough for cutting, brazing or heating right out of the box.

Another consideration is as the tip size becomes smaller so does the orifice size and it becomes a bare to clean them ity bity holes. If using an automatic cutting machine then changing tip size would be a production benefit.

Always use a mfg. pressure chart, tip sizing chart and hose sizing chart for setting gas pressures for there brand of mixing chamber and tip combinations.
Setting the proper neutral preheat flame, the orifice holes around the center cutting orifice, can be observed by the tip of the inner flame cone:

A neutral flame has a blue colored flame outer sheild with a light blue to white inner cone flame that is slightly rounded at the cone tip.
A oxidizing flame (too much oxygen) has a sharp pointed very white inner cone.
A reducing flame (not enough oxygen) would have a very round to a ragged third inner cone.

Examples:

I have found 5psi acetylene and 30psi Oxygen while cutting to be a good all around setting for upto 50ft of 1/4" hose. Your final pressure setting is regulated by the needle valve adjustments on the mixing body.

For brazing or welding a size #0 tip works well with 5psi Acetylene and 20psi Oxygen. Again the needle valves on the mixing body sets the final pressure needed at the tip.
I also use the above settings to preheat 2" round bar without any problems using the #0 size tip or the rosebud tip.
The advantage to using a rosebud tip is that it expands the flame temperature over a wider area vs using a #0 size tip. I very seldom use my rosebud tip. Preheating with LP saves some expensive gas then finish heating with Qxy/Acet.

Altough theres many different tip sizes, I have a found a No3 makes for a all around good cutting tip as it will cut upto 1-1/2" or 18ga sheet metal depending on the preheat setting.

I strongly urge you too research more information for your own safety.
T_Bone

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dsfrey7771

01-19-2008 10:27:28




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I was an Ironworker for many years and we had both Victor and Harris torches. Everyone prefered the victors and so did I. They are tough and we beat the living daylights out of the victors and still worked great! We had a lot more trouble out of the harris. Trick is keep the middle hole clean on the torch! And preheat the metal if it is over half an inch thick, your cut will look a lot better and will have a smoother edge.

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Bill in IL

01-18-2008 19:25:45




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I had a harris model 85 and didn't like it. When I cut 1/2 steel I would have to use a #3 tip. It just never put out good heat for me.

I now use a Victor model 315. It is hands down better than the old harris I had. I can use a #1 tip and cut just about anything even up to inch without any problems.

I would recommend the victor without question. Parts are easy to come by.

I have always used acetylene.

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Larry D.

01-18-2008 18:16:58




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
At My Work We use VICTOR and STA-Silv Brazing Rod to Solidify Copper Wires together...using PROPANE, We Manufacture AC Motors that are used on Off Shore Oil Rigs, But Those Victors are Tough, Everyone uses them (All Employees, ) and You know they aren't given any Slack, I recommend them highly. Larry KF4LKU



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georgeky

01-18-2008 17:26:18




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I have a Harris and Victor, and the Harris is better than my Victor. Both are good. I use Propane and it will cut more than one inch stuff if you have a propane tip in it. The biggest differnce in propane and acetylene is when it comes to welding/brazing and the acetylene wins hands down. Propane is available at gas stations, Wal Mart and is just easier to get, if you have to travel to get acetylene like we do here.

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doogdoog

01-18-2008 17:08:19




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
Aloha, I have Victor and a Smith and they are both good. I use acetelene because I sometimes weld with it and I have always had problems with the Victor regulators (I always relax the diaphram when not in use and followed all the procedures) so the next time it goes bad, I will try a different brand reg. Get a size that you are comfortable with and if you do a lot of cutting, then go to a cheaper gas or use a plasma cutter. The main thing is if you can get the parts (reg. tips, etc) locally so you don"t have to wait. Oh, if you don"t have a welder now (arc, tig, mig) plan on getting one, they go hand in hand.

Mahalo,
doogdoog

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moonlite 37

01-18-2008 17:08:07




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I sold Mecco and Harris but the Victor is much better and tips are cheaper. The price of repairs and dealer service is much more important than price and name brand. I had tools for rebuilding Mecco but Victor is the best. Smith is very costly and parts are high. Right now I am using one I do not even know the make of but is just something I got stuck with



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UncleTom

01-18-2008 16:57:38




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
What brand is up to you, just dont go with out one. I wouldnt part with mine. I coat hanger weld a lot. It is great on exhaust repair.



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gene bender

01-18-2008 16:26:17




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
They all work it is having the proper setting and tip for what you are cutting. Buy the one that feels good in your hand some are lighter and the size will vary. Bottom line is proper set-up is answer on doing a good job.



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MF Poor

01-18-2008 13:26:16




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I've got a Victor, a Harris, a Smith, and a Rego torch. (Bought 'em all 4 at auctions)

I USE the Victor.



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hay

01-18-2008 12:53:36




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
i have a harris brand torch rig. the only reason i have that one is that was what was available at the time and place where i bought it over 35 years ago. it could have been victor, smith or any other brand. to me, i have used all of the mentioned brands and they all do the same job. some are just more affordable or comfortable to use.



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Dick Lemmon

01-18-2008 12:49:28




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I have never worried to much about brand but I went to Map over 40 years ago and I will never go back. I don't use the torch for welding often. Just some coat hanger welding. I use the TIG instead where I would use a torch for welding.



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Roy Suomi

01-18-2008 12:33:26




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I've got a bunch of Harris torches...I like the way a Harris blows out the molten metal when cutting..Seems to cut cleaner than others I've tried..I have less slag to chip off than with others ..The key is a CLEAN tip...I adjust my acetylene so there's about 3 inches of bright acetylene fire , then slowly add oxygen so the acetylene flame just barely "feathers" [ before the inner flame goes to a sharp point]..Then just crack the cutting handle lever a little bit ..You will see a void in the center of the flame all the way out..Seems to work better if you don't hold the cutting handle lever wide open.. Adjust the flame anyway you feel comfortable , but this works best for me..Harris seems to have a better selection of tips at welding houses..I have 4 sizes of cutting tips , a rosebud tip that will go onto a torch head in place of cutting tip and several "Scarfing " tips for burning bolts and rivits without scarring base metal.. OK , I'm through.....

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RICKD64

01-18-2008 12:24:29




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
Here is the answer I will give you from a guy in the welding supply business (26 years). Acetylene is probably the best fuel gas for your needs...Propane and maybe propylene could work for you as well but not unless you are cutting real thick stuff...over 1". As far as the brand...There are differences but unfortuantely not many left american made..only Esab (Purox) is my choice for the best made but be sure that your local guy supports it because it is worthless if he cannot get tips and accessories for you.Victor is made in south american now and it still is good quality. Harris is made in Ireland and good quality as well. The MOST important thing is to used it correctly and these will give great service.

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135 Fan

01-19-2008 11:29:00




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to RICKD64, 01-18-2008 12:24:29  
I prefer a Purox as well. I've used just about every brand and they can all work good. I like the shorter cutting lever that's curved up on the Purox and also the fact that it can be flipped over when heating, so you don't accidentily hit it and cut into the piece you just want to heat. Purox also puts the thickness the tips are designed for on them instead of a numbering system that has to be translated. Victor are probably the most common torches. That doesn't necessarily mean they are any better than other brands. Many people have a preference. Hold them both and see which one feels the most comfortable to you. Dave

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guido

01-18-2008 12:07:11




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
hey Don
Victor is my choice, propane is hotter.
Guido.



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IH2444

01-18-2008 12:54:44




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to guido, 01-18-2008 12:07:11  
I use both, Propane is a colder burn that aceteline.



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guido

01-19-2008 16:37:33




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to IH2444, 01-18-2008 12:54:44  
Ih 2444
You are wright! propane is not hotter then acetylene.... I should have said NOT AS HOT not hotter! Guido.



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paulatclf

01-18-2008 11:56:03




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
I have Harris, but I think Victor are better. I learned on Harris, and Harris had a package deal that was hard to pass up. I also have a set of Esab which are really nice. I own my tanks, no renting. I'd say that the Acetylene has more uses, but I don't have much experience with propane.



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Two Dogs

01-18-2008 11:55:17




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 Re: cutting torches, Harris or Victor in reply to Don c, 01-18-2008 11:47:35  
They"re probably all good. I prefer Smith with acetylene. I"ve tried propane and didn"t like it. But that"s just me. TDF



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