Welding Help??

I'll be the first to admit that I'm no welder, but at least I can sure lay a pretty decent bead when I have to. :>)

Anyway, after fighting a bad 220 circuit breaker most of the day, I finally got this old welder up and running after all these years.

Problem is the rod. I bought a package of 6013 and I just flat don't like it. Seems to me I used to use a rod that was a "tannish" color instead of the dark grey and maybe not quite so big in diameter? Seems like it was called 6032 or something like that?

Can anyone tell me where I'm going with this and what I'm after, 'cause I sure don't know what I'm doing.

All I know is that this rod doesn't seem to have the "bite" like my old stuff did, uses more ampreage and leaves a "sloppier/slaggier" job. :>(

Allan

I am not a pro by any means but do an awful lot of welding with 6013. I have yet to have a weld fail...although saying that out loud will probably be the kiss of death.

If you do get your hands on some 7018 and set your welder to DC+ 120 amps for 1/8 you'll feel like a pro after some practice. Never had a weld break yet----- -not tryin to toot the ole horn but its great.

Greg

• Welding rod usage

I'm gonna tell you right up front that there is nothing I respect more than a guy who is "right in your face" honest with me.

Guess that is why I keep you fellas in such high regard. If I'm stepping in the middle of a cow pile, you'll tell me straight out and eyeball to eyeball even if it smarts a little. :>)

No, the problem isn't my ability with a stick; I can handle that part. Fact is, I'm proficient enough that I can't trust the job to anyone else. :>(

However, the last rod I had to buy for myself was clear back in the mid '70s. I always bought it in 50 lb tins and I just couldn't remember the gauge of the silly stuff. But, as soon as I hit that metal yesterday afternoon, I knew I had purchased the wrong rod. :>)

Yeah, that loader stickin' way out front like that is one of the factors leading to this whole project. I'm moving the whole she-bang back on the tractor a good foot. Suckin' it up close to the front end like it should be and this is one of the reasons fer all the cuttin', weldin', "re-designing" and general all around "tracking of cuss marks". :>)

Thanks Guy, we'll see what the day brings.

Allan

It feels like that stuff they used 100 years ago in shop class. :>)

Even a dummy like me can tell it's not much of a rod. Darned stuff feels "gooey" or something.

Is the 6011 what you use too?

Thanks,

Allan

6011 it is then. I'll probably use this stuff up someday on a "flat-lay" project somewhere along the line.

The gizmo I'm working on now is all vertical and "side-hanging" welds and it has to have the strength, so I'll head back to town in the morning to get the good stuff.

I appreciate the help,

Allan

I do most of my welding with a 6011 rod. It is a deep burn and fast freeze. It is good for dirty steel and torerates rust well. Has little slag to clean and next pass can burn out slag. It is a good "position" rod and will make a decent 1 pass vertical weld.

6013 is a slow freeze, shallow penetrating rod. Makes pretty welds if used flat.

I am assuming you are using AC current? If you are using DC current than use 6010 rod... Gene

That's exactly what it feels like. Like it's not penetrating enough and leaving that pool of "slobber".

Feels like I'm writting with a crayon instead of an eversharp.

Thanks. You guys always bail me out.

Allan

I recommend you go to the Tool Talk forum. Over the last 1 - 2 weeks there has been alot of discussion of different welding rods and their use.

The bottom line is that for around the farm / garage, all you probably need for steel is 6011 and 7018.

The basic info is 6011 is deep penetration, fast freeze rod that is good for dirty, rusty and painted steel. Often used for a root pass for these reasons. If I remember correctly best to use DC reverse polarity, if not available they also work with AC.

Commonly welders then add 7018 (need to get one made to use with AC if thats all you've got.) To add strength. 7018 is also a low hydrogen rod so it is also used for high carbon steel.

Because it is a low hydrogen rod, 7018 needs to be kept dry.

6013 is a low penetration rod, I believe it is
intended for use on sheet metal.

For most applications 6011 is probably a better rod than 6010, even if you have a DC machine. I asked about the difference on Tool Talk, and Stan from OLY replied with some great info.

This is just what I remember from what I've been reading - again I recommend looking at Tool Talk.