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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Gresen control/relief valve

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HiTechRedneck

11-24-2006 07:18:53




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A few days ago I read a post here about someone with a woodsplitter that would stall out his tractor.I have a similar problem with my gas powered splitter.The splitter itself was originally a 3ph unit which someone converted to gas.It is powered by a 7hp Wisconsin Robin engine,31/2 inch dia. cylinder,Gresen control valve(#575 H68) & Dowty Pump(#4-1-73-14, UP3025CPDFB.When trying to split gnarly,dead elm the splitter will try to stall the engine & the long hoses from the original 3ph setup will jolt up.The previous post mentioned the relief valve may be set to high?I removed the 4 screws at the end of the valve,took the cap off & saw a spring,washer & screw at the end.How can I tell if this is at the correct setting or if it has been adjusted?The unit does not have a pressure guage fitted to it.The hydraulic tank,engine & pump combo were previously used to power a homemade dump trailer.I tried looking on Google & Parker sites but didn't find any pump info.Any advice would be welcome!Thanks!!

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Mike Van

11-26-2006 06:00:21




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
I had a setup once with no relief valve [learned the hard way] Little 2 gpm pump with 2 hp electric motor running it. When the cylinder went to full stroke, the pump casing split. Hydraulics are nothing short of amazing when it's all put together the right way, but trial & error [see Phils post below] Can be $$$$$$$$$$$$$



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rongrong

11-24-2006 19:21:29




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
in regards to your problems,i would say that your problem might be that the hydraulic pump might have more capacity (volume) than the hyd valve can handle.any good hyd place should be able to tell you the specs if you can give the numbers of the pump and valve.



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phil lowe

11-24-2006 15:02:44




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
OK I wasn't gonna posdt these till I figureed out what went wrong ,but just so you don't do the same,,
I took apart my "ENERGY" control valve and found nothing where the relief was spozed to be
so off to princess Auto to get a new valve and advise ,,installed new kick-out type valve and gauge so I could see what was taking place I was chewing up 3/16 keystock cause that was on yoke side and gearbox was 1/4" so I filed a 1/4" stock on both sides so it would fit ,,,installed yoke ,,Back of my mind gonig well this "shouildn't break ,,,but what will !!!
started with valve in neutral postion then bac vk,as on the back stroke is where I but gauge,,saw 500 lb's for a sec. then saw engine bog ..so stopped and checked it out ,,looked like yoke gettin hot,but hadn't stripped keyway ,,so stoke it again ,,,,,ooops ,didn't see any pressure ,but saw the driveshaft go flying ,(Yeah I know!! ,,,shoulda put a guard on it !!!anyway ,,shut off tractor and look what I saw ,,,
I don't know if the fluid was to thick as I did change it from trany to hydraulic ??? or just what took place,
hoping the boy's at work will be able to get the gear/shaft out in the press cause I tried last night with the vise small socket on one side big on the other and a 3 foot pipe on the vise handle ,,NO GO !!
funny thing is I could still turn theshaft /pump by hand so nothing there jammed up ...
I looked on Gresen/parker site for pump info ,,but no luck ,,tomorrow ,I'm gonna drive the cylinder back with hydraulic jack ,,,to make sure it's not jammed up somehow ,,and to get thte fluid back in the tank ,then I'm gonna hook tractor hydraulics direct to cylinder to see if it will move it then put the new valve in circuit and try ,and wait n see what my next move is ..I've got a vickers pump that I'm trying to find info on and I may be putting that in place ,,
sorry I won't tell you what to do with yours ,sept if you don't know what your doing get help ,,or it'll end up costing ya !!!
on second thought ,I don't think I wanna risk my tractor pump to this experiment ,,I'm gonna go kayaking instead ,,sounds safer Phil third party image
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135 Fan

11-26-2006 09:45:48




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to phil lowe, 11-24-2006 15:02:44  
Maybe the problem is in the gearbox? That's why it was sold? Might be worth checking out. The gauge will only show the pressure needed to make the cylinder move unless it's at the end of the stroke. Then it will go to maximum. Dave



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HiTechRedneck

11-24-2006 08:56:42




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
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I guess I know as much about computers as I know about hydraulics,I don't know how I got a double posting?Hopefully I have a photo of my valve with the end cap off.Thanks for the tip!



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HiTechRedneck

11-24-2006 08:55:26




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
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I guess I know as much about computers as I know about hydraulics,I don't know how I got a double posting?Hopefully I have a photo of my valve with the end cap off.Thanks for the tip!



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Bob

11-24-2006 08:53:07




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
Install a pressure gauge, so you can see what's going on.

Likely, the pump capacity (GPM) is too much for the little 7 HP engine, but with the gauge, you'll see at what pressure it begins to bog... the relief valve MAY be doing it's job, it may be that the engine is just to small.

If the pressure DOES go out of sight before the relief blows, you can adjust it, repair it, or simply plumb an in-line relief ahead of the valve.


One type of adjustable in-line relief:

Link

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Dan-IA

11-24-2006 07:59:33




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 Re: Gresen control/relief valve in reply to HiTechRedneck, 11-24-2006 07:18:53  
I'd say pressure relief is too high or not working. General opinion around here is that for most wood splitting, 5HP is plenty. Even when using a two-stage hydraulic pump.

If you want to perform a quick test for not a lot of money, find your local hydraulic shop. You can usually get a pre-set (around 2200) relief valve for about $30. Plumb that in, and see if that makes a big change. I'm thinking it might.

We recently had a pressure-relief go wacky. Turned out that there was a very tiny pin-hole in the valve body that had a metal filing stuck in it. Too small to see without a magnifying glass. Just a thought.

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