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OT 350 engine help

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Mike in Ind.

02-26-2006 17:47:30

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Tore down my friends 350 engine in his suburban this weekend to change the head gaskets. Got it all back together and now doesn"t want to run right. Runs for a few seconds and then backfires through the carb and dies. I marked the distributer before I took it out and the crank was not moved while it was apart and it went back in and lined up where it should so I don"t see how the timing can be the problem. When I adjusted the pushrods the haynes manual said to tighten the the rocker arm nut untill all the play is gone and then tighten them another 3/4 turn. I have been told by many people that is is better to have them a hair loose than too tight so I only gave them another half turn instead. Near as I can figure I got one of the intake valves too tight. All opinions apprecaited. Thanks. Mike.

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BobinKY

02-28-2006 18:23:06

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Re: OT 350 engine help in reply to Mike in Ind., 02-26-2006 17:47:30

Hey Mike. Sounds like you have something out of whack in the valve adjustment. When you adjust the valves with the motor not running, you can get close but you will still need to adjust them with the motor running. Go to your local parts house and get a set of clips that you can put over the oil holes on the rocket. They are a small wire configuration with a white plug that you stick down in the hole. A little practice and they will stay on OK. They are inexpensive and a lot less headache than trying to cut an old valve cover with a slot down the middle. This will keep the oil from splashing in your face while you are adjusting the valves. I normally adjust one side at a time. Loosen the rocket studs until you hear the lifter rattling and then turn it down until it stops. Now turn it down another 1/4 turn and you should be OK. Don"t let the motor run too long with these clips on as you are depriving the top of the engine of oil. A few minutes will be OK. Put the valve cover back on and do the other side. Make sure you are in time and you should be OK. Hope this helps.

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Hurst

02-26-2006 18:14:14

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Re: OT 350 engine help in reply to Mike in Ind., 02-26-2006 17:47:30

Had a go kard do the same thing once and it was an intake valve that was too tight and staying open on the compression stroke, then it would send a small explosion back through the carb. That sounds a little odd for tightening the intake valves. I would call the local dealer tom. and ask them what the valve lash should be and how they adjust them. It could be a misprint in the manual??? Good luck with it.

Hurst

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Jon Holt

02-26-2006 18:13:49

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Re: OT 350 engine help in reply to Mike in Ind., 02-26-2006 17:47:30

I haven't had much luck adjusting the valves with the engine off. The best way I have done is get a pair of old valve covers and cut the middle section over the adjusting nuts out and install them temporarily on the engine after it is warmed up. Start the engine and loosen each rocker nut until you hear it start tapping, then tighten it one full turn.

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Can't even use my name

02-26-2006 18:10:48

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Re: OT 350 engine help in reply to Mike in Ind., 02-26-2006 17:47:30

Are you saying you tightened the adjusting nut on the rocker arm till it was tight then gave them another half turn? Might want to loosen those and put the correct feeler gauge blade in there and then tighten just snug rotate engine and do the same for the rest... both exhaust and intake according to what the manual says.

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Bob

02-26-2006 18:55:48

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Re: OT 350 engine help in reply to Can't even use my name, 02-26-2006 18:10:48

They're hydraulic lifters. "Specs" from different sources vary between 3/4 and 1 turn tight, after the "zero lash" point.

NO feeler gauge is needed.

Consult a shop manual for the "two position" valve setting method.

You set the engine to #1 TDC at the end of it's compression stroke, and then set half the valves, and then turn it EXACTLY 1 turn, and then set the other 1/2.

(I'll just post the procedure.)

BE SURE the engine is set to #1 TDC, at the end of it's compression stroke, ready to begin it's firing stroke. BOTH valves on # 1 will be closed.

With the valve's lash set "loose", keep spinning the pushrod for the rockerarm you are setting, with your fingers, while slowly tightening down the adjustment nut. As lash is reduced to "zero", you will instantly notice increased resistance to spinning the pushrod. From this point, continue to tighten the rockerarm nut 3/4 or 1 turn, as you prefer, to pre-load the lifter.

Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
(closest to radiator, on drivers side)

Adjust the #1 intake valve
(second from the front, on drivers side)

Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
(forth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #5 intake valve
(sixth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #7 intake valve
(seventh from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #2 intake valve
(second from the front, on the passenger side)

Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
(fourth from the front, on the passenger side)

Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
(very back valve on the passenger side)

Now rotate the engine exactly 360 degrees (1-turn) in the normal direction of rotation. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.

Adjust the #3 intake valve
(third from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
(fifth from the front, on the drivers side)

Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
(very back valve on the drivers side)

Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
(closest to the radiator, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #4 intake valve
(third from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
(fifth from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #6 intake valve
(sixth from the front, on the passengers side)

Adjust the #8 intake valve
(seventh from the front, on the passengers side)

You are now done.

If this does not help, you may have a stuck lifter, that is refusing to bleed down enough so it's valve can close, or fuel system or electrical troubles.

Post back!

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