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Here's one for welders and metallurgists !

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Billy NY

02-24-2006 08:35:45




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Okay, I've noticed that on my lovely ole F-600 that the frame has been lengthened many moons ago, there is a section that is a few feet long, added to the middle of the frame members behind the cab, welded on both ends to the existing c shape frame members, it does not have another channel inside it, like a double frame would have. The member is a C shape, typical of a truck frame. The vertical welds were placed from the inside and look professionally done, excellent penetration, profile is very flat and there are no cracks and or significant stress issues, it's been that way since new or close to it.

I did notice that on the lower portion of the "C" channel at each joint, on the inside of the "C", small splice plates were added where you can lay them flat, I'll call it the top side of the bottom flange if you raise the body and look down on it. They overlap the main vertical welds and have held all these years, but the plates are seperating from the frame now. The beginning of the vertical welds on the bottom flange may have some small issues as well, but nothing has been overstressed, now is the time to correct this, I'm sure after a few more years it could be a real problem. The weld profiles do not look large enough and probably should have better penetration on these plates, unlike the main vertical weld, which is nicely done. I can see why this is occuring some stress and or forces have caused the plates to seperate. What I would like to do is reinforce the frame along this lengthened area, but wonder what the best configuration would be. I could easily re-plate the bottom flange exactly as is now, but also wonder if I were to place a member inside the existing C frame members and extend it to overlap beyond the vertical joints of the extension piece added years ago, by either stitch welding it or continously welding it, with the shape I propose, a bent plate or modified C channel that would just have the bottom leg to stiffen the bottom flange of the existing flange and return upward say 3/4 of the way up the existing web of the C shaped frame member. Not having the upper flange which would allow a good angle for me to weld along the top edge on the web of the existing,or would it just be better use a full C shape and weld along the edges. Reason for this, to substantially reinforce the area if this can be done. Knowing that these small splice plates held for all these years, its current condition and the fact that I'm not going to carry anything heavy all loads are light materials, nor will I be going off road into places that will contort or place a lot of stresses on the frame, say like a dump truck working on a rough site. I think it's possible to remedy this but have a few concerns based on some knowlege of the subject. I know the orientation of the areas where welds are to be placed may need to be considered, but don't know if what I think may work is ridiculous or should be a straight forward repair if done properly. If I over do it and stiffen things too much, will the reactions create other issues where the new connections end ? As usual, smoke is pouring out and I'm overthinking things a bit !

The truck is a 1964, it's old, I know and have read the labels on many much later model trucks that clearly state not to drill or weld to the frames probably due to the treatment of the steel being hardened. I'm not sure what the existing material is here and want to make sure it can be reinforced without creating other problems or stresses. Correct surface preparation, pre & post heating if needed, plan to use 7018 1/8" electrodes. I plan to use A-36 mild carbon steel or what would be recommended, thickness's of the existing are approx. 1/4" or 5/16". I suspect that the steel used of this era may be more tolerant of welding, it may not be hardened and I am confident I can place a good weld with the set up I have, Miller trail blazer NT-250, using 1/8" 7018 electrodes, or the next size up, 1/4" welds or a bit larger with good penetration, I can do it in the positions I need to without much difficulty. I don't want to over do it, too much penetration, create brittleness around the surrounding areas or anything bad I am not aware of here. I will take some photos and learn how to post, possibly annotate them, probably much more helpful than this lenghty post, just that it's something I have to do, had I known I'd probably not bought this truck, but once you are in, there's no turning back. If the frame were really over stressed, I'd chalk it up as a loss, but I think it can be done without worry, might need a few tips to help do a neat but strong job correctly, the guy who inspected the truck and has many many years owning a truck repair shop across the street would have probably told me if this could not be done, but I am a bit out of my area of expertize here, be great to hear any thoughts on the subject, do apologize for the over lengthy post, photos would have been better 1st.

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cdmn

02-25-2006 22:10:53




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Billy NY, 02-24-2006 08:35:45  
This site discusses truck frame repairs and reinforcing. You can look at tractor front loader designs and see how they do it. My mid-70's Ford loader is a good example.



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Billy NY

02-26-2006 07:14:58




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to cdmn, 02-25-2006 22:10:53  
Excellent article, from an engineers view, most important point in there is the flange integrity and the orientation of fish plate reinforcing, although, this is applicable to late model trucks and materials, philosophy is the same. Some good points to consider. Will have to re-read the article again, it's a good one, thanks !



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Harold Hubbard

02-24-2006 17:01:09




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Billy NY, 02-24-2006 08:35:45  
It may be that what is loosening the bottom plates is rust. The nearest I can remember, 1" of steel expands to 7" of rust, and, like freezing water, it WILL make room for itself. Look at an old car that is rusting out, and you will see that the seams are spreading and bubbling where the metal was overlapped and not properly sealed. If that repair has lasted this long the chances are that peeling the plates, cleaning the metal under them and re-welding may last as long as you need it to. The plates may not survive removal and may have to be replaced. If rust is the cause it will be pretty obvious when you take the plate off.

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Billy NY

02-24-2006 20:29:06




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Harold Hubbard, 02-24-2006 17:01:09  
Good point, I know corroded rebar will spall 4000 P.S.I. concrete as it expands. The frame is not scaling off big flakes or anything, just has a good surface rust, but where some non critical components are installed, like parts for the dump body mounted to the frame, you can see this occuring, and close to the spring hangers, I'll be cleaning this frame up and painting it, it looks solid, except for the areas described, the intent here is to get a year or so out of the truck for the work I have, retire it then complete the restoration, move on to something much later model for hauling the material I am making. Little more than I bargained for, but a good challenge to fix up I suppose.

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B. Abseck

02-24-2006 10:12:07




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Billy NY, 02-24-2006 08:35:45  
Billy, I'm no metallurgist but I worked 14 years on the D&RGW railroad building and repairing freight cars. To reinforce the area you are talking about, try to use the same configuration of stock as the original frame is made of, i.e. channel iron. You should place a channel which would fit inside the existing frame channel and extend at least as far as the original height of the frame member. If the frame channel were 5" your splice plate should be at least 10". Splice plates really should only be welded horizontally or with the grain of the channel. Most good welders would not recommend the vertical welds as this is where the weak link is created and where the original frame member would likely fatigue next. The only problem would be moisture in between the reinforcement plate and the original frame member. Only recommendation I would have would be to apply a sealant to the vertical areas but you would have to clean them well before application. Hope this helps you.

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Billy NY

02-24-2006 11:50:18




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to B. Abseck, 02-24-2006 10:12:07  
Gotcha, makes sense, just to clarify, it appears as if the frame was cut and the pieces added in between to make the lenghth they wanted, so there are 4 main vertical welds, that have held up with no problems, it's the bottom flange where the trouble is just starting to show, and the reason I am thinking of reinforcing it more substantially to avoid stressing the area. I think photos are in order, if the post gets too far along before I can post photos, I'll do another as an update, hopefully with photos, and try to keep it brief, I highly value the advice, as this truck has to pay for itself..... or I will have to fire myself LOL ! thanks again !

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jimNCal

02-24-2006 20:52:55




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Billy NY, 02-24-2006 11:50:18  
The bottom plates ARE rusting and expanding. The flat surface acts as a 'shelf' for mud and snow to sit undisturbed. Skin the area clean and brite and weld in a couple of new straps made of stainless steel. Never will happen again.



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Jim in N M

02-24-2006 08:56:51




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 Re: Here's one for welders and metallurgists ! in reply to Billy NY, 02-24-2006 08:35:45  
Billy, I've done this before and the best way I could find was to place a plate of steel(same thickness as the original frame) over the length of the frame (outside)from the cab to the spring perch's and only weld on the horizantal,than I did a bridge under the bottom flange. I never had a problem with any of these,after years of heavy useage. This might not be what others would do but it worked for me! HTH. Jim in N M

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