4010 24/12 volt

Built a dual battery box adjacent to the starter. No cable is over 15" long and all are 00 sized.

If you will read my comments per a few days ago "when I was bored and it was freezin and sleetin", you can share the results.

Mark

I can't recall... is your's original 24-Volt, or a 12-Volt conversion?

Mark

Built a dual battery box adjacent to the starter. No cable is over 15" long and all are 00 sized.

If you will read my comments per a few days ago "when I was bored and it was freezin and sleetin", you can share the results.

Mark

Built a dual battery box adjacent to the starter. No cable is over 15" long and all are 00 sized.

If you will read my comments per a few days ago "when I was bored and it was freezin and sleetin", you can share the results.

Mark

If you have problems with cranking speed to start, it will be cheaper to fix the 24 volt system. Lots of help on the JD forum and archives. If you run a lot of electrical accesories then the 12 Volt conversion might make sense. My starting improved with my conversion, but I think there might have been a problem somewhere else at the time. Also be aware that there is a good chance that your fuel guage will also need to be replaced to work.

John

If you have need for a lot of 12-Volt power to run planter monitors, chemical pumps, etc., that might be a good reason to go to 12-Volts, otherwise I would leave it 24-Volts.

If you decide to change it, you need a starter, for which the prices vary widely, and extra 12-Volt solenoid to interface between the start switch, the neutral start switch, and the 12 -Volt starter's large solenoid. Sometimes, you can trade the 24-Volt starter in on the 12-Volt starter, other places won't accept the 24-Volt starter as a core for the 12-Volt unit, and will make you pay $$$ core charge.

You will need an alternator. A Delco 10SI is a good unit, and can be had for between $40.00 and $200.00 in rebulit form, depending upon where purchsed. I recommend a standard "3-wire" setup, rather than the "one-wire" alternators some places push.

If you would like detailed conversion instructions, email me, and I'll scan them and email them to you.

bigcoulee@hotmail.com

Can also ballance your loads between (2) 12v batteries.. etc, in combination with the above.
JD has plenty of heavy equip with 24v alt's...

Soundguy

No problem with going to a 24-Volt alternator. There are lots of 4020's and 5010's and 5020's with 24-Volt alternators.

The problem is, the center of the 24-volt system is grounded to the chassis.

For loads like fan motors and lights, you can put 1/2 of the load on each battery.

With electronic equipment loads, like planter monitors, etc., the units are polarity-sensitive, and the cases are not always isolated from the power supply wires, so, unless one is very carefull, it is easy to toast these units, either with accidental 24-Volts, or reverse polarity.

I believe some of the newer 24-Volt stuff may just have the system gounded at the first negative battery terminal, but a straight 24-Volt system is not without problems, either.

I have worked with a lot of the Delco series-parallel switches on semis and industrial equipment, and they are not without problems, either.

As I said before, I have no problems with my 24-Volt 4020. It has no cab, and I don't run any accessory loads with it, and I would not gain anything by changing it over to 24-Volts.

However, for someone who needs lots of current at 12-Volts, a 12-Volt swap may work out well, if it's done correctly.

Anyway, we chose an isolated 90a 12v alternator. It's case was not common tot he output. We ran power tot he back of the truck via welder cable and terminated and a bib twistlock plug.. worked ( still does ) awesome. Only downside is oem belt won't work anymore.

I realize this is not an option for some machines with lots of accessories like pumps and such.. just a though... depenfing on how much money you want to spend.. anything is possible.

We have a few old cummins 290 engines that run gennies. due tot he block setup there is no good place to attach an aux hyd pump. ( It does have a space for the pow steer pump.. and we have run double chamber pumps.. but you get to a point where you can't get more pump output ont he belt due to drag... Anyway.. we got a kit that put a hyd pump in place of the genny, genny was then attached via direct couple behind the pump on a thru shaft using a spider coupler. Bracket was about 300$ that mounte dthe genny behind the pump.. but works... we still have one of those old machines.. a bros mixer running that setup. upgraded another unit to a cummins 300 and it had an alt mounting location.. etc..

Soundguy

Are you familiar with the larger Delco alternators, 30SI, IIRC, that have a 3-phase transformer piggy-backed on the back of the alternator, that feeds another bridge rectifier, and produces (-)12-Volts, which, along with the alternator's main output, produces 24-Volts out of an alternator with 12-Volt windings?

Looking at the wire connector.. i see the output stud and a relay terminal... is there another negative supply reference point?.. and am not familiar with the relay terminal.. etc.

Soundguy

The bulk of the 24v alt's I've worked with are on the cat nad jd equipment we have... no split rails.. just grnd and +24v.. etc. ( same with the older units w/ gennies.. )

Have seen an alternator setup that produced 12vdc as well as 120vac ( hz? )

Soundguy