I've been reading up on this subject, as while attempting a quick fix on this 292 in the old F-600, I found the weak one ! There's always one, good thing is there will be 3/8" -1/2" protruding.BTW, the furnace cement held great, sealed the crack, but that was not the leak, so I'm taking it off, just too annoying to listen to anymore. I am wary about welding a nut on as I don't want to arc the crank bearings,not a lot of room,maybe take the inner fender well off, but having a grip and the heat would do it, I'm just not confident about where to clamp the ground. I've got some industrial penetrating oil, Free-All, and can apply heat with oxy/acetylene or just acetylene, little cooler. I'll try getting a bite with vise grips, I know Snap On makes a tool for this also, + hammering on the end to vibrate and break the bond. Just read one about where they hooked the hot, stinger to the stud and grounded nearby, then gave it the juice for 2 seconds, heat broke it free, I dunno if I'd try that. All the other bolts are loose, odds are it's not seized that bad, possibly some heat, light hammering to break the bond and if I can get a grip it may come out. I've done flush ones before, know the drilling procedures also know the dangers of E-Z outs, etc. Also reverse bits etc. Lot of tricks out there, but was really wondering how people here tackle these ?
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