|
The points (2 screws) and the condenser (1 screw) are removed.....save for a rainy day; no joke. The correct unit drops right in (where they were) and a black plastic (covered magnet) drops in over the square of the shaft (that made the points open and close. Everything else goes back together like it was except the wiring (explanation following). The black wire goes where the old dist wire went (low side of coil) and the red wire to voltage 6v or for 12v units, 12v. Be sure that you use a resistive ignition circuit of at least 3.5 ohms. Some coils made for 12v are that and some are only 1.7 (originally made for 6v systems) which require a 1.7 ohm (external) resistor in series with the coil to operate on 12v. If you don't have adequate resistance to limit the switching current to a max of 5 amperes you will burn out the electronic switch...BTDT If you have a 3.5 ohm coil, you can wire your red wire to the hot side of the coil thus getting your correct operating voltage. If you have a 6 v coil (1.7 ohms) on a 12v ignition system, you have to have a "ballast" resistor somewhere (should already be installed) and you need to go to the hot side of that resistor (not dist side) to pick up your 12v for the red wire. If you connect it to the coil (with a system using a resistor) it will only have 6 volts, from which to operate, and it will not work satisfactorily. HTH. Mark
| 
