need help

I'm NOT familiar with the Engish Dextra, but tractor electricals are really straight foward ...BUT... alternators are NOT INTERCHANGEABLE with generators. And iff'n you've already burned 4-alternators out, yer doin' sumptin wrong.

First off, alternators DEMAND NEGATIVE GROUND. English believed in positive ground generators. Generators don't really care positive or negative ground as long as you "polarize" them with the battery.

Alternators with solidstate guttz will often let the smoke out if incorrectly grounded. You do know all electrical stuff runs on smoke, don't you? You doubt? Everytime you let the electrical smoke out, it quits working. Lightbulbs, motors, toasters, vacuum cleaners all work on electrial smoke. (grin) ..... ..I digress, sorry.

Iff'n yer electrically challenged, maybe the deceptively desirable 1-wire alternator would be yer best choice. Ask at an alternator repair shop for one that charges at LOW RPMS. Tractor engines don't run as fast as automobile engines and therefore need a special low-rpms voltage regulator installed. And remember to goose yer engine after you've started it, to make the alternator charge.

Now then, all you haffta worry about is connecting 1-wire to "charge yer battery" and make certain your battery is NEGATIVE GROUND. Typically, the battery has (+) positive and (-) negative molded into the top of the battery. (look) Connect yer flat-braid ground cable to the battery (-) for NEGATIVE GROUND. Simple, eh?

Now connect the alternators BIG BATT STUD to yer tractor electrical system. Use a heavy #12ga stranded wire with squeeze on terminal lugs. Many find the starter end of the BIG BATT CABLE (usually a roundcan solenoid) to be a convienent connection to the battery (+) for charging.

After you gittchur NEW 12v alternator system working, cutt-outt ALL yer OLD electrical generator/alternator wiring. At least cut the terminalt ends of the wires OFF so you won't wonder what that loose wire is doing? Understand?

You may loose yer ampmeter readability, but don't worry, the alternators solid state voltage regulator is better than the old squarecan voltage regulator and OEM ampmeter for governing the charge of the battery. And besides who reads ampmeters ennyways?..... ...respectfully, Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6v 8N, and I know how to do it right the 1st time. Infact, I know 8-ways to do it and they all work.

As for your starter motor spinnin' but NOT spinnin' yer engine, this could be eather a low-charged 12v battery ...or... sticky oily starter bendix drive. Starter Bendix drives are made to be operated "SQUEEKY CLEAN". Any oil will slow down the bendix extenstion into the flywheel starter ring gear and grind. Me? I'd remove the starter attach bolts and pull the starter motor out just a bitt so I could use a straw nozzle BRAKE CLEANER squirt'em-up and flush/clean the bendix drive. The brake-cleaner is NON-OILY and dries squeeky-clean and doesn't harm the clutch disc and will dry out innna few minutes.

Of course, there is ALWAYS the possibility, that yer starter bendix has come apart inside yer tranny case and just won't connect to the flywheel. Many a tractor carrys "spare starter bendix parts" in their tranny/clutch housings without harm. Iff'n the bendix flush with brake-cleaner don't solve yer starter problem, time for an eyeball inspection..... ..respectfully, Dell