complete tractor ignorance HELP

THANKS
JAY

P.S. In reading some of the archives on this sight I see that some of you can be brutal. So keep in mind I am not stupid just ignorant. There is a difference.

Compression- this is OK if it was running before.

Air- Try cleaning out the air filter.

Fuel- Make sure your fuel is clean and there is fresh fuel reaching the engine.

Spark- Make sure the plugs are sparking.

If I were you I would look for something simple if it was runing Ok beforehand... is fuel reaching the engine, if not why? Is thge float bowl obstructed?

Try these things and get back to me on this. maybe we can fgure something out.

God bless.

Pawel

Next time it won't start after running for 5 minutes, you might try hot wiring it. That's how I figured it out (by luck).

Keep messing with it over the next couple of days and you'll eventually figure out what is wrong.

Good luck,
Joe

So, what is the problem? You didn't tell us that.

Did it crank over slowly when you tried to restart it?

Did it fire at all, or nothing at all?

Did you pull a plug wire & check for a spark?

Was the tractor really hot when you shut it off, or was it barely luke-warm?

When it did finally start later, did it fire right up, or struggle & cloud of smoke & it coughed to life?

When it shut off again, did you take off the fuel line & see if fuel was running freely to the carb?

These things will help in solving the problem. Nothing brutal about it, just need to know to help. :)

In short, you either have an electrical problem or a fuel supply problem. Need to eliminate one of those.

From there, we decide where the problem is - something in the gas tank, plugged fuel line, bad/ plugged carb, sticking needle valve in carb if it is fuel; or a shorted wire, bad coil, bad shaft on the distributor, etc.

Need to know more to figure it out.

--->Paul

Your symptoms sound like vapor lock, but I don't think the NAA is prone to vapor lock.

The 12 volt conversion can introduce problems: If there's no resistor in the system your points will burn quickly. No resistor can also cause the coil to fail. If he replaced the original coil with an internal resistor coil, these are also failure-prone.

You could be getting low voltage to the coil. Caused either by the lack of a charging system or a bad or to large resister in the coil primary circuit. Most times on 12v conversions I don't use a resistors. Have found they cause more problems than they solve. Matter of fact I just mowed my lawn with a AC WD45 this afternoon, this tractor has a 12v conversion on it without a resistor and has been running on the same points, condenser and coil all from the 6v system for 15 years.

jt

Any one of a number of things could provide the symptoms you describe.

On the simple end it is probably either fuel or ignition or compression.

I would start with fuel. The simple check here is to see if gas is getting to the carb bowl. Just open the bowl drain or take the plug out (whichever you have) and turn the fuel on at the tank. Gas should come out at a pretty good stream. If you just get a trickle start chasing your way back to the tank one part at a time until you get good flow. I would guess the carb is probably ok or tractor wouldn't run at all but there could be dirt any where including the needle valve.

If your initial check on the fuel shows up ok I would move onto ignition. Easy check here is to pull the coil wire out of the Dist cap and hold NEAR a ground (about a quarter inch) and turn the engine over. If you see a spark this is not your problem if no spark I would suggest a tune up (plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap and rotor) If that doesn't fix it replace the coil. I would wait on the coil due to expense unless you are massive miles away from parts store. Make sure the wires are "wire" and not carbon like in resister wires.

The only thing I could think of on the compression end is if the valves are set a little tight. This will show up with the engine cranking either real easy or with a weird cadance. Like one or more cylinders aren't providing the same resistance as the rest. This is a little tougher to fix but doable just pull the valve cover and adjust the valves according to spec.

If you haven't already I would suggest getting a service manual for your tractor they are invaluable in doing this sort of work. Several sources including the left side of the website you are looking at right now!!

Having the loader on will make working on your tractor it's own special treat but most of the jobs I mentioned are doable with most loaders.

HTH

jt