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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Making your own hard line hydraulic lines

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cootbruce

11-23-2004 07:11:08




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Has anyone here made their own hard line hydaulic lines and if so..where did you find the "parts" the line and fittings. Any suggestions on how to make them, such as type of flaring tool, bender, type of hard line...I need to make some long lines with bends and prefer to make them "hard lines"

Thanks




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George G

11-24-2004 14:26:48




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
I use mostly Parker hose,tubing and fittings. When ever I'm replacing tubing, I replace it with Parkers Ferulok or EO Bite Type fittings. You don't need to flare. Just slide the nut and ferrule over the tubing, stick tubing into the fitting and tighten down.



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George G

11-24-2004 14:31:11




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to George G, 11-24-2004 14:26:48  
That link did'nt work. So, We'll try again.



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dlm

11-23-2004 20:30:35




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
Do it the correct way and make it look factory .
Go to your hyd. supply get the proper tubing and fitings. Most of your older hyd. lines used J I C fitings whitch were 37 deg. flair the flairing tool is a roller type and they make benders for the different size tube with the right bender you can make real short bends. Depending on your pres. you could use black pipe might have to go to sceg. 80 . But it won't look as nice. If you use pipe don't use cast fitings only steel.

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NC Wayne

11-23-2004 20:29:57




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
Your local hydraulic shop should have or be able to get you the tubing as well as the nut and ferrel to go on the end. Hydralic flares are high pressure, but they aren't double flares, they are simply a single 37 degree flare (used to be called a JIC, but now there is actually another "industry name" even though JIC is still commonly used). The first thing you need is to cut the tube square, and any good tubing cutter will handle that task ok. I hunted through several different catalogs, from Grainger to MSC to J&L to Travers, as well as calling around all over town looking for the flaring tool itself. Everybody had the standard 45 degree stuff for gas but not the 37 degree. I finally found the flaring tool through McMaster-Carr. I got the larger one from them to do 3/4" -1" tube for a job about 3 months back, and just ordered the smaller one to allow me to do from 1/4" - 1/2 inch end of last week. They are both in the $300+ range so don't be shocked when you go looking and see the prices. We've gotten by for years without them but I have a job to do requireing me to make up all new lines going down the side of the boom on a excavator. They range in size from 1/2" through 1". Since it's a custom thing unfortunately there are no factory lines available, so I've got to have everything or turn down the job, and "that ain't gonna happen". For the bending your typical tubing is .197 thick so it's fairly hard to bend. Still the smaller lines (1/2, 3/8, etc) can be done with your typical tubing benders made for that size hard line, but when you get into the larger stuff (1/2 plus) you need to step up to at least a heavy duty conduit bender. The main thing, with bending any tube is to have the right tool with the proper raduis for the tube size your doing and don't try to overbend or you will crimp the line. If you need a long sweeping bend you can take the tube to a sheet metal shop and let them gently run it through a slip roll to get the initial curve and then clamp it in a vice and slowly work it to the final shape from there. For this boom job I've talked to somebody that does it all the time and they told me have a setup to clamp to the boom to bend the tubes in place. I've got an idea of what their doing and am gonna try to make one for myself...wish me luck... I hope this answers your questions, and good luck. Wayne

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NC Wayne

11-24-2004 16:00:05




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to NC Wayne, 11-23-2004 20:29:57  
Correction on the tube wall thickness in my previous post..... I should have said .095, NOT .197 is a real common thickness for the tube walls, but that depending on the tube size and operating pressure of the system your planning to use it on it can vary widely. So make sure you know the max operating pressure of the system and size your tube accordingly. I should have been a little clearer about this, sorry.... Wayne

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cootbruce

11-24-2004 08:19:18




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to NC Wayne, 11-23-2004 20:29:57  
Thanks Wayne,

That is the information I was looking for...my problem..I live in Upper Michigan ( not at that end of the earth...but I can see it from here...) I can not find the fittings...I have called in a 100 mile radius and not found the tube fittings...I have been told to use soft hose fittings, cut the crimping section off and weld/then braze over the weld, the fitting to the tubing.....I can't even find a source for the fittings "on-line"

you gave me a lot of good information...thanks

bruce

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txblu

11-23-2004 09:02:20




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
High pressure use reverse flares if you are doing it yourself. A reverse flare is a flare that had the end pushed in first. It gives you 2 thicknesses of material at the point of compression.


Mark



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Midwest redneck

11-23-2004 08:05:01




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
Are you piping in a new machine? or a tractor hydro system. I would recommend the following: Use steel lines with flareless fittings, or compression fittings less work, less leaks, also make sure that you size the tubing for the pressure ratings. if the tubing is on a tractor then paint the tubing to prevent rusting.



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old

11-23-2004 07:59:59




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 Re: Making your own hard line hydraulic lines in reply to cootbruce, 11-23-2004 07:11:08  
I make the with spec 80 water pipe, I get them close to the right lenth from a hard ware store and use my habor frieght 12 ton pipe bender to bend them as needed. The pipe bender cost $100 and it has been well worth it. I also use it to bend flat, angle and tupe iron when I need some bends



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