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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Hey Willy-N

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kraigWY

11-15-2004 10:45:41




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I need to make a fork lift fork attachment to hang on the loader of my 4020 for moving pallets etc. Do you suppose I could get by with heavy channel iron. It would be a lot cheaper then buying the forks, and I have most of the scrap iron for the rest of it. Any ideals.

Thanks Kraig




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T_Bone

11-16-2004 05:22:21




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
Hi Kraig,

One of the reasons why regular forklift forks work so well is the steel is heat treated for hardness and then tempered. This would require an oven that would be able to hold set temperature for 24hrs at +-100º.

One way to test a design is too use a 3/8" chain (blanket covered) accross the length of span with a hydraulic jack of the correct tonage rating of the design.

What this test will show is web leg length is more important than the tickness of the web.

Example: using common HR A36 steel, a 4"channel iron with a 1/2" web thickness with a 2" web leg length will not add that much to the overall design yeild when comparred to a 4" channel with a 1/4" web with a 2" leg length.

Using a 4" channel with a 1/4" web thickness with a 4" leg length will dramticly increase the load bearing rating tho.

I built a set of 6ft forks for a front loader bucket that used 4" channel with a piece of 3" channel skip welded inside the 4". This design I tested too 1500lbs for a common load of a 1000lbs.

Keep in mind that testing too 100% over of design load rating should be common for "any" home built designs as you need a extra safety factor for lifting devices. Lifting with travel requires even more of a safety factor of 3 times.

Even at that you want to be extremely careful of having other people around the "load" while it's off the ground.

Lift and travel with pallets on a hard surface is difficult enough muchless travel on uneven ground.

T_Bone

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JMS/MN

11-15-2004 16:36:58




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
I built a pallet fork for my 4635 Gehl skidloader this summer, using 2x4, quarter inch wall rectangular tubing, 48 inches long. Rated load for that skidloader is 1350 lbs. The supports for the forks are half inch steel, two flat panels, welded together at the top, with an eight inch spacing at the bottom. The front panel is cut to allow the forks to go through to the back panel, and the forks are welded at both panels. Forks are mounted in a vertical, not flat position. Therefore, a 'homesawed lumber' pallet works ok, but I need to make some pallets with 2x6 risers for the forks to fit into better. A 2x3 rectangular tube might well carry the rated load, and would then allow easier insertion into the pallet. Oh well, maybe next time!-but it works for me now.

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Leland

11-15-2004 14:42:08




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
you can buy used forks pretty cheap, and they are heat treated and are more like spring steel they need to be able to flex under load plain steel would bend and not spring back. I know of 3 places around here that junk out old fork lifts am in cent ILL



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geok

11-15-2004 17:33:13




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to Leland, 11-15-2004 14:42:08  
Would any of these forklift yards have an old Toyota 3FG15 with 4P engine wrecked out. I am looking for a flywheel and pressure plate for one.



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Leland

11-15-2004 21:31:12




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to geok, 11-15-2004 17:33:13  
Try pennells at 217-243-8968 they ship there is a couple of others in area they had a couple of toyota's on lot don't know what shape there in



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26Red

11-15-2004 13:09:51




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
I have built two out of 2x3x1/4" box tubing. Works really well. I can mount it on my 3pt hitch or loader. The down side is that the forks are fixed. I welded some large gussets to the side of the "L" to handle the load. I spent about $60 for the steel. It handles 1000lb pallet loads easy. Heavy angle iron would probably work also.



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Willy-N

11-15-2004 11:06:37




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
Depends on how heavy things are you are going to lift. You could do a test with a one fork mock up and see what it takes to bend it first befor going thru all the trouble to finish it. Sorta depends on what steel you are using. You could allways add/weld a section of steel in the channel to beef it up more if needed. My neibor just bolted the forks to the bottom of his bucket and it works great but they are comercial forks. Stick a chunk of the channel in the bucket use a hydraulit jack to hold it tight to the bottom and start loading it up till it bends. After you see what it can do you can bolt it down with 2-3/4 inch grade 8 bolts thru a plate for more even strength. I use 1-1 inch grade 8 bolt w/nut on tention for each fork on my lift and they will not pull out. The fork is a L shape and the bottom hooks over 3/8 inch thick 4 in X 1 1/2 in box steel and the top bolts on with the Grade 8 Bolt. Mark H.

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paul

11-15-2004 10:49:56




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 Re: Hey Willy-N in reply to kraigWY, 11-15-2004 10:45:41  
If you search the 'projects' and a few other sections of the following site, you will find many, many good forklift ideas. I highly recommend it. The site is aimed at sub-compact yuppie users, but as far as neat implement ideas like forks or 3pt hitches, they have a ton of good ideas & photos....

--->Paul

www.tractorbynet.com



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