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taper shaft advice

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cootbruce

10-25-2004 08:06:49

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I will be installing a new clutch on my old bobcat which has a tapered crankshaft. I broke the old clutch taking it off...I thought I should put something on the shaft before installing the new clutch in case I someday need to take the clutch off again. My question is....is there any reason I should NOT put say..anti seize (sp) or some other stuff (like what...I don't know) on the shaft? anyone have any advice on this? any reason to not put something on the shaft?

Thanks

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cootbruce

10-26-2004 13:23:08

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

Thank you all for your advice, to bad we can't all agree on what to do....The shaft does have a key way and does use a bolt to pull the clutch and hold in on the shaft. Maybe that information will help clear up what I ought to do with it. At this time I am considering a very light sanding to remove old scale and rust, light oil, wipe off, then very light antiseze or light grease coat to prevent rust, then tighten to torque specs. But...open to any advice still, as usual, one project has lead to another, the only time I can pull the engine out of the machine is if the clutch is off...after my experance pulling this one off, I don't want to risk breaking a new clutch ($500) so before I put it back on, I am pulling the engine to clean, repaint and rewire, and anything else I might find to do before putting it all back together.

Thanks for any advice.

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Bob - MI

10-25-2004 13:20:55

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

Tapered shafts need no lubrication. Others have said it well that the taper should be clean and dry to be most effective. The factory doesn"t use lube and you shouldn"t either.

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Gene Davis (Ga.)

10-25-2004 11:52:10

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

When I was serving an apprenticeship under a master machinist at South Georgia Trade and Vocational school in the late 50's, his favorite way of doing it was to apply a clean,light oil, wipe it all back off and then drive the taper home usually wwith a block of hardwood between the object and the hammer. It worked well on the large lathe tail stock drill bits, chuck and nandrels and etc. Have used his method for many years with good sucess, particularly on tapered flywheels and crankshaft ends. The key to sucess is to be sure the inside and outside of the taper are clean, grit free and correctly matched and tap it firmly into place to seat the taper.DO NOT pound with a killer sledge hammer. Do it smoothly with a dead blow type or soft face hammer after you get it lined up and installed as far as it will go by hand first. Gene Davis

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lucas boy

10-25-2004 11:19:33

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

do not use anything on the taper.it must be clean and dry. its the taper that gives the good fit,tapers arent the same as say a pully on a straight shaft.. lucas

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JHesler

10-25-2004 10:59:24

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

I always use grease, just wheel bearing grease seems fine. I've even used it on non keyed shafts (cam sprocket on old VW diesels). I haven't had any bad experiences with it.

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Mike M

10-25-2004 09:48:11

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

Does it also have a key or spline to hold it in place and a bolt or nut to draw it up tight ? If it does not rely on the taper fit entirely to hold it I would use something,grease, neverseze so it doesn't rust fast.

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kraigWY

10-25-2004 08:21:51

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Re: taper shaft advice in reply to cootbruce, 10-25-2004 08:06:49

I would think tapered shafts are tapered to ensure a tight, forced fix much like the tapered shafts on machine tools, drill chucks and such. I don't think lubing the tapered shaft would be a good ideal.

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