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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Wiring a Ford 3000 tachometer

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Wayne Collier

10-20-2004 08:47:52




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I have purchased a 73 Ford 3000 and am attempting to replace the tack. The engine was replaced with a new BSD engine and with a couple of trial and errors I now have the correct tack (that spins in the right direction). My delima is that apparently the City Parks and Recreation (who owned and replaced the engine) only had red wire in inventory and I am struggling to get the darn thing to show engine temp and fuel level. Could someone give me directions on what goes where and the chase points?

Thanks,

Wayne

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Rod F.

10-20-2004 18:41:40




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 Re: Wiring a Ford 3000 tachometer in reply to Wayne Collier, 10-20-2004 08:47:52  
Hi Wayne,

Guess I should warn ya now... this is gonna get long.
Ford thousand series tractors had a mechanical tach which received it's drive from the rear end of the generator. This made the tach turn in a clockwise rotation. The cluster itself was supplied by AC. In '76, Ford changed the tach drive from the genny to and angle drive taken off the oil pump drive shaft/cam gear. There will be a round plug about 2" in diameter, placed horizontally below the oil filter. Under this is the gear. The shaft should have a square hole in top for the drive cable. Hence, the rotation was then changed to counterclockwise. The genny was also tossed in favor of an alternator at this point. Further, the new clusters were supplied by Stewert Werner. Here's where it gets tricky. The temperature gauge on the AC and SW clusters work on different resistance values, so the sensor is tied to the cluster. Old and new can't be mixed. The fuel gauge SHOULD (i say should) be the same. Now, I have done this conversion, and in my old '74, the temp sensor had 1/8"NPT. The correct sensor that will match the SW cluster will have 3/8" NPT. My guess is that the BSD head would be fitted with 3/8" NPT. So, they could have either bushed the old sensor back in, or they may have changed the sensor..... This could be part (or the source of) your temperature problems. Now, just off the top of my head, I think there will be one power feed going to the cluster, coming from the key. There should be a fuse or fusable link feeding the ign. switch. (Make sure you have oil pressure and charge ind. lights working, and power to the cluster.) The wire from the ign switch will feed both gauges. There is also a voltage stabilizer, if I'm not mistaken. So, power from the key, through the gauges, and a sensor wire down to the fuel tank float...which provides a variable ground. Temp sensor is the same principle. Wire from gauge to sensor... providing ground. Now that you're waist deep in this pit, I would seriously consider buying the correct parts to change the tach to the counterclockwise rotation of the newer style. That will free you from the generator tach drive. If you still have the generator, the day will come that you wish you had an alternator. Unless you are restoring to look original, you are at the crossroads... Post back if you have more questions. HTH.

Rod

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genep

10-20-2004 14:27:55




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 Re: Wiring a Ford 3000 tachometer in reply to Wayne Collier, 10-20-2004 08:47:52  
I'm not familiar with the 3000 specifically, but a mechanical tach requires no wiring except for the light. The fuel and temp gauges should be similar to any other automotive/equipment. On electric gauges a hot wire goes to one terminal and the wire to the respective sending unit goes to the other. Use a test light or volt meter and with the switch on see if you can get voltage to one of the terminals. The other wire should go to the sending unit. The light should be wired through the light switch. If you can be more specific with the problems we'll try to help

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