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city boy looking for tractor advice

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City Boy

09-13-2004 12:10:21




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I"ve been a city boy all my life, but I now live on a 10 acre hay field. I"m looking for a versitle tractor that will accept a wide range of implements (small haybine/cutter, small baler, etc.) The local JD dist. tells me I NEED 60 to 70 HP. Is he just blowing smoke hoping for a big sale? Ford 8N"s, 9N"s are cheap and easy to find but are they powerful enough. HONESTLY what kind of power do I really need?

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Bob Semrau

09-15-2004 12:59:00




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
If you go a little bit larger than a Ford N and stay away from Deere, there is a sweet spot in dollars per hp. I ended up getting an Oliver 1600, which is like a Cadillac running a baler. Smooth 6 cylinder, 60 hp, independent PTO (better than live), power steering, a TA that doesn't break. It's a little too big for mowing and snow plowing (I have a Ford Jubilee for that), but a great tractor for haying. I got it for $2600 and put another $400 fixing it up. In much of the country that's what you would pay for an N. I also looked at a Farmall 560 which was in the same price range, but it wasn't as comfortable as the Oliver.

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G-MAN

09-14-2004 16:00:46




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
Nothing against the guys that are saying that you can get by with 30-40 horsepower, but I'd go bigger. A minimum of 50 horsepower and a six-cylinder engine for maximum smoothness on a small square baler. I've baled a lot of straw, prairie hay and good alfalfa on a Farmall M and JD wire-tie baler, and listening to that M run up and down all day gets a little old after awhile. You'll also want live PTO for baling if you want to maximize efficiency, and you won't get that with an "M". I'm a Deere two-cylinder guy, but they're not too handy for loader work, although they were available with live PTO, power-steering, and good functional hitches from the early 50s on. Those are items you'll want - good hydraulics, a modern hitch and power steering. And I've worked on Ford N-series tractors, and wouldn't recommend them for anything but a large garden. They're kind of a go-kart of a tractor. All that said, I'm not familiar with all the brands and models that fit those bills, but something along the line of a nice JD 3020, IH 560/706, etc would do real well for you. You could go out and buy the cheapest thing that you think will "handle" what you want to do, but soon you'll be wishing you'd spent a little more to get what you want instead of only what you "need".

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G-MAN - oops...

09-14-2004 16:16:19




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to G-MAN, 09-14-2004 16:00:46  
I talk about a six-cylinder and then mention a 3020. That would be a dynamically-balanced 4-cylinder, and much smoother than an older non-balanced 4-banger and especially a 2-banger on the PTO.



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John (MO)

09-14-2004 08:03:13




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
You've got a lot of advice below and most of it is pretty solid.

Of course the JD dealer is hoping for a sale, but a big sale... from a guy with 10 acres...? I'm sure he sells new tractors that can't be turned around on your 10 acres. So, unless he's got you pegged as a guy with more money than brains, he's not figuring on selling you a new four wheel drive tractor. He undoubtedly sees several people just like you every year. He knows the land conditions in your area and about what it takes to do the jobs you are most likely going to be doing. I would guess he telling you the HP you will need at the upper end of the range, but then he doesn't want you buying a tractor from him that you soon feel is too small. That's not going to make him look good in your eyes for future business. So stick pretty close to his HP recomendations.

Here are my other recomendations: Look at other brands of tractors in addition to JD. JD makes good tractors and has for years and years, but they also command top dollar. To farm 10 acres you don't have to buy top dollar equipment. If you buy a 20 to 50 year old tractor in the HP range recomended, in it's younger days, that tractor likely farmed 10 to 20 times the land you are talking about. Therefore if it's in good condition, your 10 acres will be like a vacation home for it. Compare the features you need in a tractor between all the brands. You will in almost every case find the JD tractor to be the most costly. There are MANY other good brands and if they are sized right and have the features you want, (and of course in good condition) they could save you 50% or more from the price of a simular JD.

People who farm large and make their living farming often buy JD equipment new every year or two. For them a brake down could cost many thousands of dollars from the lost time. Their tradein's are in good shape and in high demand. They have the ability to take advantage of everything associated with new equipment.

On the other hand, I have to laugh everytime I see a 1960's 4020 advertized for up around $10,000. Why would a farmer who needs the size, power and features of a 4020 spend that kind of money? If they bought a simular Ford, IH, Case, AC, Oliver..., they'd still get a very good tractor and have thousands left in their pocket!

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paul

09-13-2004 19:42:13




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
You would need 35 hp more is better less is possible but no fun, you will be _much_ happier with live pto, and you need some fairly ok hydraulics to run some of the cutters.

If you have a worse tractor, you can 'get by' baling as I'm sure others have mentioned below, but since this is what you are buying for, don't sell yourself short with a N Ford. They were lovely tractors 60 years ago, but the lack of live pto, live hydraulics, no power steering, and very few gears to change speeds, and a bit light & low hp for hay makes them far from an ideal choice.

A baler needs live pto to make it enjoyable. It needs a tractor heavy enough to be an 'anchor' for the baler - and possibly a wagon you place behind the baler. You need 15-20 hp to run the baler with a strong enough pto to handle the backlash from the stored 50 hp in the baler flywheel. You need an additional 10-20 hp to pull the baler & tractor through the field, and maybe 120 bales on a hayrack behind the baler. That makes about 35-40 a real good size for a minumum. You need enough gear choices to have a real slow speed for big windrows, and faster speeds for lighter hay.

Most anything works for a sickle bar mower, but a haybine again needs some real power & real live hydraulics and live pto and enough weight to move the haybine - you don't want the tractor being pushed around.

This farm has baled 2000 - 6000 square bales a year for the past 35+ years with a 35 hp IHC 300 row crop tractor with a TA for 10 forward, 2 reverse gears. A 270 NH baler has been behind it all that time. Nice combo. I use a heavier tractor for a 9' haybine/ moco, but it might pull a 7' ok.

--->Paul

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Steve450

09-14-2004 06:34:14




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to paul, 09-13-2004 19:42:13  
The question you really need answered is what is your land like?? Is it flat, rolling , steep side hill?? This will be the major factor on how big a tractor you will need. I'm not a fan of the N series fords, but I'm sure it would pull a baler on flat ground. I wouldn't even think of putting a wagon behind it on even a small hill. I bale with a Farmall 656 (65hp, 8000lbs)and a small square baler on some pretty good hills. We pull a wagon behind the baler and I have gone for a few thrill rides on the hills. With you being a "city boy" you have probably never operated a tractor, and yes, there is a differance between driving a little 8N down the street in a parade and actually operating a tractor. City boys + tractors = sombody getting hurt. I'm not telling you not to have fun with your ground, but try to find sombody with a few years of real farming time under their belt to help you and teach you how to safely run the equipment. Old tractors don't have many safety devices, and were engineered for work, not safety.
With that rant over, If you have hilly ground, you will want a bigger, heavier tractor with a roll bar and a seat belt. I would say 65-75 HP & wide front end. Flat ground is a little more forgiving and you could get away with 40 or 50 HP. Like everyone else has said, Live PTO and Live hydraulics are a must if you want to have fun. Don't ever expect to make a dime at it and do expect to shell large amounts of money out of your pocket to keep your machines running. If you have a few bucks to play with, go for it and have fun. Just don't kill yourself in the process.

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Grant MD

09-13-2004 18:44:18




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
I'm a farmall guy, but we had a ferguson 35, which is kinda close to a 9n. It was a good tractor, but hard to do tough work with. For ten acres, I'd recommend a farmall 300 or 350, not too big, fairly easy to work on, and pretty reliable. I would also recommend becoming good friends with a farming neighbor and get LOTS of good advice on when to cut, what to buy, etc... Remember, sometimes with old equipment it pays to be patient and buy the right tractor for you. The wrong tractors and equipment can be very costly financially and mentally.

Good luck, Have fun!

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I Like Case

09-13-2004 18:01:40




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
For a 10 acre place you will NEED at a minimum a WD AC w/a No.5 JD mower, a 9N with a dump rake, a M Farmall on the baler, a 720 JD w/F-10 loader to gather bales, a DC Case to pull the bale wagon, a C Farmall w/belly mower to trim up around the house, a L Case w/4 bottom plow for the garden,...



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Allan in NE

09-13-2004 18:34:39




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to I Like Case, 09-13-2004 18:01:40  
That ain't the half of it....if you get another 5 acres, then we are really talking the need of some serious horsepower.

I'm sure at this point, any farmer in the land will tell you that if the sun rises before 11am, you would need a front wheel asist to handle 15 acres. :>)

Just a jokin' around with ya,

Allan



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Leland

09-13-2004 16:44:57




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
Look for a 3010 or a 706 just the size tractor you need plus powerful hyd system and will handle pto work with ease.



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Can't even use my name

09-13-2004 16:41:58




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
Just curious, what are you going to do with this hay field? Feed it to your horses or try to make money off of it? Or do you have time and money to use and just want to do some hay?
As far as the tractor, don't get a Ford N of any size. You probably need about 50 horse to be safe. If you have 50 horse and only need 30 so be it but if you have 30 and need 50 then what?



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brian1

09-13-2004 14:29:36




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
I just sold a nice 40HP IH 350 utility because it was a little small for what I wanted to do. You wouldn't regret having a few more HP. I'm not into color wars over what to buy. I ended up with an AC D17 50HP. Amazing what the extra 10 HP can do.



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Jonboy

09-13-2004 14:27:29




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
You'd only need a 60-70hp tractor if you wanted to run a big round baler, but for small squares, you could get by with like what I've got. I have an International 484 tractor (38 PTO HP),JD 14T baler, a Hesston 7ft haybine, and a Massey Fergueson pinwheel rake that goes on 3pt. Thats all I need to do hay, and my tractor runs that stuff with ease. I borrow a hay tedder from a local farmer, and that requires almost no horsepower to run. Ford N sries would not be a good choice because they lack live PTO, and I don't think I'd want to use one with a baler on a steep hill, especially with a wagon too because they lack weight. My 484 weighs 6,000lbs without a driver, and I think an 8N is right round 3,500lbs. I don't use a wagon and bale right on the ground.
Hope this helps!

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Peanut

09-13-2004 13:44:48




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 Not a Ford N in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
This advice coming from the owner of a 1940 9N. Those little tractors are not going to work for you. Get bigger, heavier, and more power. My 9N works great for dragging around gravel & snow and cutting the grass. Oh yeah - pulling the kids on the hay wagon too. You know, light duty work.



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Bill Rolland

09-13-2004 14:07:18




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 Re: Not a Ford N in reply to Peanut, 09-13-2004 13:44:48  
I have a 1952 Ford 8N, terrific on my 6 acres for hobby farming (discing, mowing, grading, etc.). If that's what you're planning, fine - they're relatively cheap, easy to fix and get parts for, good-looking too. But there are limits to what they can do - they're in the low range for ooomph. Perhaps ask around, soon enough you'll meet someone who's got one, ask if you can try it out. Most Ford enthusiasts would be glad to let you test-drive.

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Peanut

09-13-2004 14:14:30




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 Re: Not a Ford N in reply to Bill Rolland, 09-13-2004 14:07:18  
Bill - You are right. I really enjoy my 9N. I simply would not get rid of it. I would however let someone try it out to see if that is the type of tractor they could use. It is 64 years old, ugly, and dirty but I am proud of it.



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TheRealRon

09-13-2004 13:19:46




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
He's a liar, tell him I said so.

Lots of people with small plots use 30-35 hp tractors for cutting hay. As long as you are not going to plow, that's all you need.

Shop around. Stay away from JD. Stay away from the 8N and 9N too. The local what used to be Oliver dealer, who then sold New Holland, is now selling Kubota. Why? Because that's what people want. Inexpensive, sturdy, etc. Just be sure you know exactly what implements you are going to buy first. Match them up by size and task. If you will be maintaining a road or moving snow, consider a loader and back blade. Note that some tractors are great loader tractors, others are worthless.

If you have a neighbor with a small plot and a small tractor, go talk to him. Learn all you can before you start writing checks. If you have specific questions about a certain model of tractor, new or used, post back. No doubt someone here has one.

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Rick in Michigan

09-13-2004 12:53:47




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
It all depends on what YOU want to do with the 10 acres. If you want to make money, lease it out to a farmer who already has the equipment paid for. You will never pay for (not even well used!) equipment on 10 acres. If you don't mind throwing fist-fuls of money at it, then you will be fine.

My background - I bought 80 acres and a tractor (JD 4020 95 h.p. $7000), baler (JD 14T $750), Wheel Rake ($750), 7' sickle bar ($350), and wagon w/hayrack ($500). A lot of money for the equipment, but it was all in excellent shape (and you will either pay it up front or pay for it in time and parts).
This year I bought a 12' haybine($2500), a 5X5 round baler ($3500), and the next size larger square baler with a kicker (JD 24T $1250). I also leased 300 acres of good quality grass hay and barns to store the hay in.
Considering that my time is worth something and the fuel and maintenace that goes into it, it will take me ~ 4 years to pay for it with the farm income...if nothing major breaks and the weather co-operates.

If you want to run a haybine and a round baler I'd say your dealer is right on the money.

If you want to use a sickle bar mower (instead of a haybine, a rake, and a small square baler you can get by with something smaller...around 30-40 h.p.

8N/9N ? Consider something else for haying. Not enough power and not enough weight. I've had both (or should I say had it with both). Buy a tractor with enough power, and power steering. Generally, used tractors in good condition get cheaper the closer you get to 100 h.p., but don't plan to mow your lawn with it.

Just my 2 cents from my (learning) experience.

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Allan in NE

09-13-2004 12:52:36




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
CB,

I'm gonna make all the Ford guys mad at me, but I wouldn't even think about anything less than a 50 horse outfit.

Those little Fords are kinda fun for pushing a little snow plow, mowing grass, draggin' a wagon across the yard and maybe even pulling a hay rake once in awhile, but let's be honest, they really aren't much of a tractor.

And another thing: For their size and weight, they are anything but cheap, IMHO.

Just my view and is stated as such,

Allan

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SAH

09-14-2004 19:49:13




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Allan in NE, 09-13-2004 12:52:36  
I would have to disagree with anyone who says you need anything more than a 50hp tractor. My father has farmed 250 acres for 20+ years and has done everything with 2 tractors less than 50 horse. Our farm had some very steep hills and we were still able to haul a ford baler with a thrower and a wagon load of hay up any of them we wanted. And they were only 2WD.



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Nebraska Cowman

09-13-2004 16:50:35




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Allan in NE, 09-13-2004 12:52:36  
Allan, I don't want to start a fight here but I baled hay with a 9-N when I was 10 years old, PTO New Holland 68 with a wagon behind. Yeah, sometimes I had to kick it in nuetral and let it catch up on the backswath.



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Allan in NE

09-14-2004 04:49:23




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 09-13-2004 16:50:35  
Now,

Comon' ya old devil; aren't cha bein' a little cranky here? :>)

I know darned well that if you had 10 acres of hay to put up and you had a Ford 8/9N and a M to chose from, you'd put the little Ford on the mower or rake and the M on the baler.

Comon, fess up. :>)

Allan



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devin

09-13-2004 17:24:29




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 09-13-2004 16:50:35  
We ran a 70 acre dairy farm with an 8N for years before we bought a Case DC to do the field work with. Yes, we have baled hay with the 8N pulling an old McCormick baler. We even pulled a wagon behind the baler. Without LPTO, it is hard but not impossible. Of course, we had to overhall the old 8N every ten years, but we worked the you know what out of it. We eventually reduced the 8N to utility work when we bought the Case DC.

Don't give up on thoughs 8N's. They are a tough little tractor for going on 60 plus years.

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Dr.EVIL

09-13-2004 12:39:37




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
I've never seen anyone run a baler with a 8N or 9N Ford. Personally I'd find a clean FARMALL M or Super M. People say You have to have LPTO, Live Hyd. P/S, 3-point, etc. etc. but People farmed with tractors for 50 yrs without LPTO, etc. The haybine You mention would require the most HP... and a 7 or 9 ft Haybine probably does take 60-70 HP in a NEW tractor....40-50 in older iron.... All those power Necessities take power to run....

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G-MAN

09-14-2004 16:10:31




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Dr.EVIL, 09-13-2004 12:39:37  
Seeing as how you've jerked my chain from time to time, I'll jerk yours. Explain to me how a haybine knows what it's attached too and adjusts its power requirements accordingly. A 70 PTO-hp tractor is just that - 70 horses at the PTO. Whatever "power necessities" are on the tractor have nothing to do with it. If an implement takes 70 horsepower, it takes 70 horsepower, regardless of the age of the tractor. I've baled a lot of hay and done a lot of other light work with a Farmall "M". It handled everything fine, but a live PTO sure would have been nice for shutting off the baler when turning around with a rack behind, in order to save wear and tear on the PTO driveline. And listening to an "M" speed up and slow down in time to the plunger strokes all day is not real pleasant. And as far as hydraulics, forget about it. My uncle's (now my) JD "60" was 3 times the tractor hydraulic-wise that a stock "M" ever thought about being. The power-steering is nice, too. And a better drawbar. I'm not trying to sell him on a Deere, because there are lots of other newer models and brands that would also fit the bill. Granted, 10 acres isn't exactly the Ponderosa, but to fool around with 65-year-old technology when there are much more modern tractors available for little to no more money is foolishness, particularly if you're going to try and make some money doing it.

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Can't even use my name

09-14-2004 16:38:46




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to G-MAN, 09-14-2004 16:10:31  
I think back in the 50's and 60's a 50hp tractor had more torque than a 50hp tractor of today. They were larger engines. Not sure why but it just seems that way. Think of a 200hp gas versus a 200hp turbo diesel, both the same horse but I guarantee the diesel will outpull the gas.



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G-MAN

09-15-2004 13:53:05




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to Can't even use my name, 09-14-2004 16:38:46  
Of course, but a 50 horsepower tractor in the 50s was likely the biggest horse on the farm or close to it. 50 horsepower today is a compact-utility or small row-crop at the biggest. Sure something like a Farmall M will out-torque any similar-horsepower machine built today, but you're comparing apples to oranges. 248 cubic inches running on gasoline at 1500 or 1600 rpm to probably 150 cubic inches running on diesel at 2600. That's why I suggested something newer like a 3020 or 706 that has more creature comforts and a lot more capability combined with the low-end grunt of the older iron. Either way, an implement that takes 70 horsepower takes 70 horsepower, regardless of what engine speed or size is delivering it. The fact that an old tractor may be able to lug it better still isn't going to help if it can't produce the ponies to get it running full speed to begin with. Size the tractor to the job, don't try to get away with less, or you're just abusing everything involved.

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RAB

09-13-2004 12:37:14




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to City Boy, 09-13-2004 12:10:21  
Yep, he"s seen you coming, unless he knows something you haven"t told us. I would have thought 40 horse power would be more than enough to make 10 acres of hay with a small baler.
Unless you have some steep hills, or want to make big bales and move them safely, a smallish utility sounds OK.
Set against that, HP for the $ it may be more advantageous to buy a bigger tractor. They do have a bigger safety margin, better braking with the extra weight, etc, and you do say "a wide range of implements"
Even 25HP would be enough tractor, but if it was my only one, I would prefer a few more horses, and make sure it has those extra features like independant pto/hydraulics, diesel engine, good range of gear ratios.
AND get one with a safety cab or ROPS at least, and wear the belt. Yes, above all, be safe.
Regards, RAB

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wdTom

09-13-2004 18:49:12




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 Re: city boy looking for tractor advice in reply to RAB, 09-13-2004 12:37:14  
The farm I worked on as a kid farmed with a AC B for years. Pulled a New Holland 77 bailer with it too. Only reason it could do this was it had a mower center mounted and front axle counter weights which would keep the front end down. They used this tractor for everything from 1939 to 1956, putting up up to 8 to 10000 thousand bales a year. In 56 they bought a AC WD-45. With those two tractors this farm handled the 160 acres of the home farm and rented as much or more around town for hay production. And did some custom baleing. When I started working there in about 1964 the NH 77 was getting on, and by the time I was old enough to be on the hay crew and be driving tractors and trucks it was replaced with a JD 24 T which the 45 powered with ease. If you fed it too much hay the governor would just open and shear a shear bolt. All I am saying here is for a 10 acre field you don't need more than a 20 hp tractor. Could plow it, harrow, plant, mow, cultivate, rake, and bale unless the baler was a PTO model in which case I would say you could use 30 hp. Live PTO and hydraulics are more important here than power.

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