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Be brighter, look brighter, safer too

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buickanddeere

06-19-2007 10:11:36




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Look brighter, be brighter……………Safer too.

After looking for a little more wattage in the garden tractor headlights, antique tractor head/tail lights, stop lights for some vehicles, modern tractor flasher warning lamps etc. Here’s what out there. The price is about the same for most lamp upgrades vs. the dimmer origionals so why not?

12V 15mm bayonet single contact base. There is the 1156 an ordinary 25W lamp everybody takes home. There is also an 1195 lamp with 35W and a much improved 795 or 795X in 50W halogen. With the 50W in applications operating continuous with an all fully enclosed all plastic lamp assembly. You may have to drill a 3/8 vent hole on the bottom/side and top opposite side of the lamp enclosure to let some of the heat out via convection airflow.

12V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. There is the common 1157 with 27W/9W or step up to the 1188 with 50W/32W.

6V 15mm bayonet single contact base. Tired of the dim 1142 or 1143 at 13 or so watts? Even the so so 1129 with 17W? How about a 1521, 45W, 7564, 122450 or an A12036? They are all a hairy chested 45W.

6V 15mm bayonet dual contact base. The normal 1158 is 17W/5W. Brighten up with an 1188 with 34W/24W or an 1116 with 32W/21W.

Of course cleaning & shinning up the lamp’s reflector & lense is always the 1st course of action.

When handling any incandescent lamp, halogen or not. The lamps will last long if it is 100% clean and oil free. Your hands; no matter how “clean” are still oily. A wipe with a dry shop rag is little better. Alcohol is an excellent oil solvent and evaporates away quickly.

Lights that just won’t “brighten up” often suffer a poor return path through the vehicle/machine’s chassis. Running a separate return from the lights back to the battery is sometimes the best solution.

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souNdguy

06-19-2007 12:19:34




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 Re: Be brighter, look brighter, safer too in reply to buickanddeere, 06-19-2007 10:11:36  
I think those 6v hi wattage lamps will be kind of self limiting.. At over 7a per lamp on the 45w jbs.. how many do you think the average old 6v charging system will run? My JD B would actually slowly go dead running a single lamp..good thing it's got a magneto ignition... My allis G might actually be able to keep ignition powered and 1 lamp running.. hope I don't stall.. cause there will be no battery charging power left over.. now.. for those of you with 2 headlamps.. therein becomes a problem.. IE supplying battery ignition and running 2 head lamps.. and a tail lamp? Lets go easy, and figure 3.5a ignition.. 17w rear lamp.. and 90w front lamps.. That's a hair over 21a.. That's right at the 20/25 a max level for many o fthe 40/50/60's era 6v generators. In fact.. if you were lucky to have a 25a job.. perhaps a ford 01 seies .. you would actually have about 18w left over to slooooo ooooo ooowly recharge the battery.. not to mention you are running the genny at 100% of it's rated duty cycle to do this...

If we are talking some of the older 3rd brush 11a jobs.. well.. that's back to 1 lamp and ignition, AND 100% duty cycle.

Guess the genny rebuilders will have to be working over time.. I forsee lots of solder being slung...

2 35w h-lamps.. and an intermittant use 35w rear work lamp / 17w rear red tail lamp + ignition is about all you can ask of these old electrical system.. and hope to have battery power to crank up in the morning... not to mention.. still running the genny near 100% rated output...

Soundguy

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buickanddeere

06-19-2007 19:36:10




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 depends on the appplication most can be improved some in reply to souNdguy, 06-19-2007 12:19:34  
Soundguy It all depends on the machine and application. Does this cover a fairly wide range “the garden tractor headlights, antique tractor head/tail lights, stop lights for some vehicles, modern tractor flasher warning lamps etc” ?You examples lean towards the low powered gennys . All three of the garden tractors have 15amp charging systems. The LX188 in particular goes from 4amp to 8amp lighting load. I suspect she’ll handle it fine. One of these days there will be running lights and a small rear white light installed. Not much chance of overdriving the lights even while in reverse gear. I do like to improve chances of seeing what toys and stones the children have left in the grass should mowing run late and while the days are shorter in the spring & fall. The old 110’s with the starter-generator seem unphased. The fronts are 4amp each on one of them for vision in swirling snow. Not that the garden tractors see very much night usage but it’s nice to be able to see if they do. One of the 110’s blew snow all winter for years with 10amps of lighting load some mornings & evenings. Never had a dead battery or a slow cranking engine The 70D. 80 and 720 all have 25amp 6Vgenerators. Stepping up to 1133’s on the fronts and a 1521 on the single rear lamp work just fine. No ignition load there. Doesn’t take much from a battery to spin the starting engine for a second either. Or just swap the taillight only & to a modest 1133 if you are worried. Some of the gasser two cylinders do have the weenie 12amp generator. At least we can brighten up the red tail light a few watts. Other two cylinder gassers have the later 20amp generators with the cooling fan and smaller drive pulley. 12amp of lights doesn’t bother them unless the operator leaves it at slow idle for a while. Or is one of those cheapskates that “saves” gasoline by shutting off the engine every time they dismount to open or close a gate, door etc. As about the only time the two cylinders see lighting usage is on the road to or from local shows. An hour or two at wide open throttle and lights on has brought no ill effects. 2 minutes of lights on while parking in a dark shed hasn’t bothered either. The 435 diesel already has sealed halogen fronts. The extra 2 amps on the rear light have not brought the electrical system grief to this day. No ignition load there either. The 1640, 2355 & 4050‘s updated to 4 amp warning lights have yet to drain their electrical systems. Around here the Autos & trucks all have 105 or larger amp alternators. A few extra amps are neither here nor there in this application. Particularly for stop lamps which are intermittent. As for your applications with the low powered generators. You could do no wrong to up just the rear red light a few watts. It’s only on when road traveling and that’s usually at full rpms. I would expect less trouble from a generator running at full rated than an alternator at continuous full rated amps. Keep the brushes clean and spring tension on spec, they don’t seem to mind. We usually keep the spider webs and dirt blown clear from the internals as well. We do keep equipment tuned up so they usually start on the 1st or 2nd rotation in less than 1 second’s time. If the batteries never get discharged to any significant degree. The ammeters swing back to only an amp or 2 after 10 minutes running. For those of you; whose signal to perform maintaince only after the battery have been ground dead and the engine failing to start. You are on your own. We don’t go cheap on the batteries either. They are always vibration resistant units and with the most CCA that will fit in the battery box. Now we are changing everything over to AGM’s when required.

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souNdguy

06-20-2007 07:50:26




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 Re: depends on the appplication most can be improved some in reply to buickanddeere, 06-19-2007 19:36:10  
My exp with gennies runs the gambit of colors.. I've got some IH, JD, AC, lotsa ford, and a few odd pieces of industrial equipment. The gennies range from 7 a to 25 a depending on the machine.

If you are running these extended lamps on units with maggies.. you have less of a problem as there is no ignition to support.

I don't like running any charging system at 100% rated load for extended periods of time.. ( smaller amount of time at full load.. no problem.. heck.. short periods of over load are ok too. ). I've just seen to many gennies that sling solder if you run them at 25a and or full load.. or slightly overload for any length of time.

I agree.. If nothing else.. increase rear tail light wattages to help visibility. As for foward visibility.. I'v not had a problem with my tractors that use a single 35w or (2) 35w front lamps.. I can easilly see way ahead of my driving speed ( no way to overdrive your lighting / sight distance on a slow farm tractor ).

Ditto about the low rpm usage.. Gennies aren't efficient at low rpms. in fact.. some 3rd brush units actually have a charge curve that tapers off and flattens at higher rpms..

Every 6w of power used at 6v = 1 amp. Thus a:

15w lamp consumes 2.5a

35w lmap consumes 5.83a

45w lamp consumes 7.5a ..etc

Soundguy

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buickanddeere

06-20-2007 09:05:09




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 Plan B in reply to souNdguy, 06-20-2007 07:50:26  
Even higher current when initially switched on until the filament becomes incandescent and resistance increases to allow rated current. On the order of 10 times rated current for 100-200 ms Rated lamp voltage, electrical system voltage and voltage drop in conductors will somewhat slant the wattages, current and degrees Kelvin. I had a senior’s moment last night and missed posting the source for a LED conversions. The lumens of a 35W incandescent with only 2.7W power consumption. No heat to speak of that could melt plastic or discolor paint. The LED’s could in some instances be a cost effective option to provide more light without electrical system upgrades. LED's even allow “high output” dual headlights and a tail lamp on even a very old and modest powered electrical system. Link

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souNdguy

06-20-2007 09:28:48




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 Re: Plan B in reply to buickanddeere, 06-20-2007 09:05:09  
I'm quite familiar with HIT led lighting systems.. I do sound and lighting work for a media company. Superbright led technology IS a great power saving device. I don't even own a single incandescent flashlight anymore.. just LED flashlights. Beam throw is not the same.. but then.. all I need is a short range flood anyway.. the crisp white and good coverage is a bonus for detail work.

We have many LED fixtures that can replace par cans for short throw venue applications.

Soundguy

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