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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

starter/solenoid

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Gus

01-01-2004 07:09:55




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Tried to start my JD450B after it sat for 2 months. Turned over a few times, battery died. Charged it hit the starter button, nothing. Put the charger on 200 amp boost, nothing.It has a key and starter button. When I hit the button, amp guage shows a draw. Put the jump cable directly on the solenoid with good ground, nothing. Took the solenoid off, took the cap off, cleaned the copper all up, wd40-ed everything. Putsolenoid back on, hit the button, nothing. Guage on dash still shows draw when I hit the button. Lights work so I,m pretty sure battery connections are good. Strter is fairly new (200 hours ago) It's a real bi%^h to change and expensive so I'm hoping it's something else. Would the amp guage show a draw if the starter button was bad and not the solenoid? Wouldn't the sloenoid at least click if it was OK and the starter was bad? Thanks for any input. Gus

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jdemaris

01-01-2004 11:56:11




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 Re: starter/solenoid in reply to Gus, 01-01-2004 07:09:55  
You didn't hurt anything with the WD-40. Considering your amp gauge shows a normal draw, sounds like your solenoid is either sticking, or the brushes inside the starter are sticking. Quite possible you might just tap on the end of the starter with a metal object while pushing hte button, and it might work. The response you got mentioning a "Ford type solenoid" is probably referring to a Ford type starter relay - technically not really a solenoid. Generally speaking, in automotive or tractor terms, an STARTER RELAY makes or breaks a circuit from a remote location but does not create mechanical movement, whereas, a STARTER SOLENOID makes or breaks a circuit and ALSO creates mechanical movement. On your John Deere, you've got a starter-mounted Delco stater solenoid - makes connection and mechanically pulls the starter drive into engagement. All the current that it takes to engage this solenoid is carried by the ignition swith and button. 30 amps is a lot for a switch to carry. Thus, if you added an additional starter relay, IT would carry the bulk of the current to engage your higher drawing starter solenoid - even if your ignition swith was getting worn. Deere began to use such relays along with the starter and solenoid on newer equipment. But . . . back to your problem. Considering you've taken apart the solenoid and cleaned (or reversed the contacts), there are basically three steps to diagnose the problem. #1 is there enough battery voltage/current getting to the main terminal on the solenoid? I would put a load tester on it and know immediately, but . . . if you don't have one - do a crude test by simply shorting the main post to ground with a screwdriver or such. A good spark will let you know real fast. #2, if you've determined there is ample power, now cross the two big terminals on the solenoid together (the big 3/8" studs). The starter should spin, but the starter drive won't be engaged. It it does so, then the starter is probably all right and the solenoid is not working properly. If it won't spin, then the brushes are burnt/stuck, etc. If so, try rapping (gently) on the end housing of the starter while the terminals are crossed. #3 If you've determined you have power, and the starter turns(freewheels) when the two studs are crossed, then pull the solenoid off. Just remove the two 1/4" screws that hold it to the starter, rotate it a bit, and pull it off. Then you can try to clean it up, or just replace it. I used to buy new ones for $20, but perhaps they've gone up. One other thing you probably already know. The Delco solenoid had two big terminals and two small. One big one is hooked to your batteries. The other big one is hooked to the starter. One small terminal is marked "R" and is not used on a diesel (R stands for ignition resistor bypass). The other small terminal, marked "S" for start, goes to your starter button, which gets its power from the ignition switch. You can bypass your starter button by shorting the big battery terminal to the small "S" terminal. Easy to do with a small screwdriver. If it will ONLY start that way, then problems exist in the wiring, button, switch, etc.

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Greywolf

01-01-2004 09:39:40




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 Re: starter/solenoid in reply to Gus, 01-01-2004 07:09:55  
Clean the terminals on the battery and battery cables. At least start at the easy end.

Sometimes enough gets through to do the accessories, but not enough contact to draw full amps for the starter to engage and swing. And yes it will peg the amp gauge.



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Gary-Miss

01-01-2004 07:32:56




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 Re: starter/solenoid in reply to Gus, 01-01-2004 07:09:55  
Several things to look at here. A starter mounted solenoid takes about 30 amps to pull it. The wire that energizes it goes from the battery to the starter switch and then back to the solenoid. It will still show an amperage draw in energizing the electromagnet in the solenoid, but, it won't pull the plunger. On racecars, big trucks, combines, etc, we use a Ford type solenoid which has a small current draw. Move the battery cable to it, run a cable from it to the starter solenoid, jump from the big post to the solenoid post. I take a piece of copper tubing, hammer one end real flat so it will be wide, the other end slightly flat so it will still be narrow, drill a 3/8 hole in one end and a 1/8 hole in the other to use as a jumper on the starter mounted solenoid. By the way, don't forget to move the big feed wire from the old solenoid also. Sometimes, your old solenoid will be dirty at the plunger. Pull the solenoid off and clean the plunger and the bore. Dry both of them good. DO NOT use any oil. The plunger will stick. It must be dry. Good luck.

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Gus

01-01-2004 11:03:17




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 Re: Re: starter/solenoid in reply to Gary-Miss, 01-01-2004 07:32:56  
So the wd40 I sprayed in there was a bad idea? Do you use the ford type along with the starter mounted solenoid? Guess I'm confused.



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Jon H

01-01-2004 11:45:44




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 Re: Re: Re: starter/solenoid in reply to Gus, 01-01-2004 11:03:17  
Yes, the starter switch should be assembled dry. I have added a Ford car type starter solenoid to several Diesel tractors to serve as an auxillary cranking relay. With the extra relay installed,the (in my opinion) much to light for the load starter wiring needs carry only about 2 amps to energize the auxillary cranking relay instead of the 30-50 amps required to pull in the big starter mounted solenoid. The idea is to mount the Ford car type solenoid near the starter and connect the tractors small start trigger wire to the S terminal on the Ford solenoid to energize it. You then make up cables of 10 ga wire to connect from the original solenoids Bat connection to 1 large post of the Ford solenoid. Then make up another 10 ga cable to go from the other large post of the Ford solenoid to the original trigger wire post on the big Delco solenoid. Now your light original starter solenoid wiring need only supply a couple of amps to energize the Ford solenoid, and the Ford solenoid now feeds power directly through very short heavy cables to feed the 30-50 amps necessary to energize the big starter solenoid with minimum voltage drop. I have done this c0nversion on several early 4020 diesels and find it is stock on 69 and newer 4020 diesels( mounted under the cowl on the left side). I would not use the Ford solenoid to carry full cranking amps of a big diesel starter,as they were not designed for that much amperage. The wiring system I described sends only the 30-50 amps necessary to energize the starter mounted solenoid through the Ford solenoid. The starter mounted solenoid is designed to carry the high amp load of that starter.

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