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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

which JD loader fits on a 3020?

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Perry Hazelwood

10-30-2003 22:07:08




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I've found a 1965 3020 gas in excellent condition that I want to find a JD loader for. Does anyone know which JD loader was made to fit on a 3020?




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fasting

11-01-2003 14:31:28




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 Re: which JD loader fits on a 3020? in reply to Perry Hazelwood, 10-30-2003 22:07:08  
The 46A was the vintage strong loader for a 3020,
stressed when used on a 4020. These loaders had axle housing boots, to bolt the sub-frame, and
a front bracket which required removing the cast
weights. If your 3020 has dual valves, you can easily use the hydraulic bucket. There was a 46
loader, looked the same, but something must have changed. The downside of the 46A, was it was not a 'high lift', difficult to load many rack trucks,
Oliver was a cake walk. Good luck.

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720diesel

11-01-2003 05:48:30




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 Re: which JD loader fits on a 3020? in reply to Perry Hazelwood, 10-30-2003 22:07:08  
We have a 46a loader on a 720D which was made to be on the 10 and 20 series. It has dual cylinders on the bucket. We just modified it slightly for the 720. It has a frame that goes to the back axle and a bracket for the front of the 3020. I think this is a pretty strong loader if you don't get carried away trying to use it for a dozer, which we sometimes do.I believe the 48 loader will fit a 3020 too.

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JMS/MN

10-31-2003 00:20:00




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 Re: which JD loader fits on a 3020? in reply to Perry Hazelwood, 10-30-2003 22:07:08  
Most 3020s had the 148, although some older ones will fit, like maybe the 46, etc. 148 had the two cylinder bucket setup, 46 was a single cylinder in the middle, I believe. Not a strong setup. I think the 158 also fits, although it is usually found on bigger tractors. Weak idea on the 148 on a 3020 is that the loader hangs from the engine side frames, tends to break the 2x2 alongside the radiator, and wears out the bolts holding the engine to the side frames. Those engine bolt holes can be tapped bigger, one time, and then you replace the block to get new holes. I rebuilt the subframe on mine to eliminate the problem- bolted a bracket to the rear side of the subframe, ran four inch channel back to below the rear axle, and clamped the channel to the axle. Also provides a handy step alongside the tractor. This new frame puts the pushing stress on the rear axle, instead of the side of the engine. Did mine about fifteen years ago, and no problem since. Also consider replacing original front hubs with the thicker ones from a 4020. Hubs are full inch thick all the way around, not just at bolt holes.

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