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Welder deal?

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Tyler(WA)

03-14-2000 11:16:07




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I have a chance to buy a Craftsman, 220v, 70 to 220(?) amp AC stick welder for $125. Comes with cart and some accessories.

Good deal?




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Paul

03-15-2000 18:10:11




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 Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-14-2000 11:16:07  
Tyler, I have a Craftsman welder that sounds similar to yours. I don't know if you got any literature with yours. They will start easier and weld smoother with the range set on "high". It's supposed to run more economically on the "low" setting, but I leave mine on high permanently. Also, if you ever have trouble with the amperage adjuster - it moves a "slug" through the hollow transformer and part of it is made out of fiberglass - you can rebuild it substituting wood for the fiberglass. AND a common dual pole 50 amp circuit breaker mounted in a buddy box is a cheap replacement for the $60 original equipment Sears on/off switch. ALSO - the fan motor is a match for the motor in those old can opener/knife sharpeners that are in every yard sale for fifty cents. If any of you guys are starting to think I'm a skinflint - you're right!! Tyler, don't worry about all the ailments I've mentioned - my welder is twenty five years old with lots of miles under it's belt. I hope you have fun with it.

Paul

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Fred

03-15-2000 11:18:41




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 Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-14-2000 11:16:07  
Tyler, I think it's a great idea. Reminded me of my first welder, years ago. I walked into a place about 15 miles from my home and when the fellow asked if he could help me, I told him that I wanted that welder right there and wanted to pay half on it today and half in thirty days. He filled out a bill and don't think he even had me sign it and said "load 'er up". I had never seen the guy before and he couldn't have known me, I just got in town. Needless to say,I was back in thirty days to pay the balance and it was a great welder.
Thanks for that memory. I'd get a few rods and run with the welder you're thinking of and then smell the thing. You can tell if it smells stinky (like an electric motor thats going south) that it's seen better days. Seems to me that these welders had a little capacitor inside (like a motor run capacitor), the oil filled one to give it a little extra boost at the start because these welders were a little hard to start. If it's real stubborn for you to get going, take the old one out and go to a electric shop and replace it with one of the same rating. That should help keep the rod from sticking so much. Learn to drag to start and you'll be surprised how much this tool will increase your abilities around the wet forty.

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Tyler(WA) I got it

03-15-2000 14:02:33




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 Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Fred, 03-15-2000 11:18:41  
Thanks Fred,

I picked up the welder at lunch. It was 30 to 240 amps and has two ranges but infinite settings between hi and low of both ranges. It smells fine. No fried windings or capacitors here. I'll take a peak in my little 110v. buzz box for one of those capacitors though. It's a little hard to start but I've managed to work it. Maybe it'd be a lot better if I find a cooked capactor to replace.

I think this will be a good step for me.

Thanks for everyone for all the input.

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Fred

03-15-2000 15:01:16




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 Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA) I got it, 03-15-2000 14:02:33  
Tyler, I don't think you'll find a capacitor in the little welder but good luck. I think thats one reason that they're so hard to strike an arc with, the mfg. was headed for economy instead of well, you know... The big one might have one though, maybe two. It's got two circuits there. If you liked and noviced the little one, you'll love and master the new one. It probably won't hurt to take the bonnet off and blow all the dust out every year or two. We won't see a post from you for a week or two but we'll know why. Have fun. I have some big 'ol 2 or 3 hundred amp diodes that I've
wanted to heatsink and rectify one of those welders with and a capacitor just to see how smooth I could make one of them weld and to say I did it, I guess. That would make the output DC instead of AC. Cheers

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Tyler(WA)

03-16-2000 07:11:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Fred , 03-15-2000 15:01:16  
Where did you get those big rectifiers? How much do they cost? I have a background in electronic engineering and it wouldn't be too hard to convert the AC output of my (essentially a transformer) welder into a smooth DC.

If you assemble a bridge rectifier, the DC output will be 1.44 times the AC voltage output.



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big fred

03-16-2000 20:08:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-16-2000 07:11:48  
Tyler, there used to be a place on 1st or 4th in South Seattle, think it was called Western Nut, Bolt and Electronics. I used to get tubes there, and they had weird stuff like that. Don't know if they are still in business or not.



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john d

03-16-2000 13:07:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-16-2000 07:11:48  
We hooked up some diodes in a bridge format on our AC box here at school one time as an experiment. It worked pretty well! It also provided a quick and easy way to demonstrate to the kids how easily you can magnetize things with a big coil of wire and a quick burst of DC current!

One solution to the problem of hard starting arcs is to find a high-frequency unit. We put one on the school welder years ago that we got on sale at Sears. You might be able to find a good deal on one of those somewhere. They really help!

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Tyler(WA)

03-17-2000 06:55:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to john d, 03-16-2000 13:07:37  
That's one of the reasons DC is so much easier to handle. A bridge rectifier essentially folds the sine wave and gives you twice the frequency. The metal really doesn't care if it's DC or AC as much as it does that the frequency is higher. Three phase units work better for the same reason.



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Fred

03-16-2000 11:00:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-16-2000 07:11:48  
Tyler I guess that we are blessed here in Ohio to have the worlds largest electronic surplus store, Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio. These diodes are ST810P but my ECG book don't list them. 1/2-20 thd. base w/3/8" cable-4" long coming out anode end (top)w/ Cathode case. Just guessing, I would say they are 200/300 amp. Weigh about 1/2 lb. or so ea. You got my curosity up on the 1.44, so I went out and looked on the Airco transformer- rectifier welder in the shop. Airco Bumble Bee, 250 amp AC and DC. Max. open circuit voltage-AC 75 and DC 76. Must be changing taps on transformer when you switch from AC to DC to keep OCV the same. Nothing in there but transformers,4 silicon rectifiers, switch and a fan and a few little ceramic disc caps around the rectifier bd. They use a big VR to change the current levels. Must bias the input to the transformers, I guess? I don't remember what these diodes cost but my welder has 2 anode case and 2 cathode case. You'd just have to configure 2 backwards on these. They're all 4 cathode case. That don't appear to be a problem though. Well, look around and if you don't find any maybe I'll find a semi going your way and send these to you. Cheers

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DIODES

03-16-2000 16:41:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Fred, 03-16-2000 11:00:40  
Just got the lastest catalog from Surplus Center, they have several high cap diodes, one is 300 amp @ 300 V, 3/4 stud with 3" pigtail, used for 11.99 ea. several others to choose from. Cataloge# 273 and their ph is 1-800-488-3407. I've been looking but haven't found a web site yet



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Tyler(WA) Thanks

03-17-2000 07:02:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to DIODES, 03-16-2000 16:41:40  
I just ordered a catalog.

I'm not sure when I'll get to playing with converting my welder to DC but it's bound to happen. Getting acquainted with my welder as it is will take me a while.

Thanks for all the help.



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Steve U.S. Alloys

03-15-2000 05:16:32




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 Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-14-2000 11:16:07  
Hi Tyler,
If the machine is AC only, a Lincoln 225S or Miller Thunderbolt will be about the same price. If it's an AC/DC machine it's a steal. Those go for $400.00 and up.

Terry is right about the fact that sometimes 70 amps is too much. You may already know this but you will have fewer burn thru problems if you push the rod on thin material. Also, you can reduce output by wrapping the welding lead around a 12" to 18" piece of copper or brass bar stock. There are other factors that effectively influence output as well. Not enough room here to elaborate.

I would personally consider the amp adjustment mechanism when comparing welders. The shunt type (on the Thunderbolt for example)is infinitely variable allowing you to get almost exactly the desired amp setting. The Lincoln 225S for example may be too hot at one setting and too cold for the next. You just can't easily get between the preset output ranges.

Compare the warranty to other machines as well. Also compare the duty cycle which should be 20% on a buss box like that.

Hope that helps you out a little.
Steve

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Tyler(WA)

03-15-2000 06:42:52




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 Re: Re: Welder deal? in reply to Steve U.S. Alloys, 03-15-2000 05:16:32  
Thanks guys,

This is the Craftsman AC only but has infinate adjustment. I already own a small 20 to 70 amp 110v. buzz box and it's great on sheet metal. I'm one of the few in town that can arc weld a mailbox (for what ever that honor is worth).

I think this bigger box will get me out of the "fat crayons" and into a "box of 24 Crayolas." Someday, I'll get a AC/DC or maybe a MIG unit (that's a box of 48 Crayola's) but for now, I think this is going to be a good step up.

Thanks for the tips on preventing burn through. I'm a self taught welder and can use all the help I can get.

I plan to take a welding class at the Voc-Tech school but that will have to be when I have some time.

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Terry (NC)

03-14-2000 19:44:18




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 Re: Welder deal? in reply to Tyler(WA), 03-14-2000 11:16:07  
This sounds like a good deal however the range may pose problems. I'm frequently tacking sheetmetal or expanded metal with 1/16, 6010 rod and 70 amps is easy to burn through with. Sometimes after burning through I turn my welder down to about 60 amps to build the hole back up. It's not a frequent problem because I'm a pretty good welder but it would be nice to have that capability if needed.



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