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MIG Welders

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George

02-23-2000 13:48:54




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I'm in the market for a MIG welder. But I'd like to get some info and opinions first.

I'd use it for my bike (motorcycle repair) and later to do some fabrication, stuff like furniture and fences. My concern is buying something that won't be versatile enough to cover these applications, but also not spending an arm and a leg for it. How critical are feed and temp
ranges for the applications that I mentioned. Thickest steel I'd probably work with for the time being is 3/8.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

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walt

02-25-2000 17:43:32




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
I have a Blue Point Mig welder I bought from Snap-On It works very well up to 1/4". It was right in the ball park price wise with local welding equipt. dealers. It is 110 volt. It costs me about 15.00 to refill a 90lb bottle of 75%CO2 25% Ar. And it lasts a long time. Use mine all the time on my race car and other projects. The good thing about dealing with a tool truck is you can pay 20 or 50$ a week with no interest. Good Luck

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Shawn

02-24-2000 05:51:29




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
I have a Miller 130 mig welder. This unit runs off 110v and I also use two different gases with it. I think the welder goes for around $475 plus a bottle and regulator. It is a quality unit and parts are readily available. I do not weld anything over 3/16" with this machine. I have a large stick welder for that. You can expect to pay at least twice as much for a mig that can handle 3/8" steel. Stop by your local welding supply. They should be very helpful with showing you all the different machines and there capabilities.

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George

02-24-2000 09:31:44




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 Re: Re: MIG Welders in reply to Shawn, 02-24-2000 05:51:29  
Thanks Guys. You've been really helpful.

I'll consider the Miller, but I'll also look at delating my prjects to make sure I get something that will cover evrything Clooney mentioned. It's no fun realizing your tools don't match the job, and right now I think my ideas are getting bigger than my bank account. Gotta figure out what I want and how soon I'll get there.

I've contacted a tool broker, so I'll keep you posted on what I find out.

Thanks

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Sticky

02-23-2000 20:19:26




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
George! Do you want to spend several thousand dollars?? Save money, try this. Lincoln makes a lunch box size 110v mig welder that works like a charm for common steel alloys. If you look around you can find a brand new one for 330 dollars.
you simply plug it in to a regular household outlet. Its draw is real low making it possible to run several hundred feet of extension cord without overloading your house breakers. I use big shop migs most of the time but I am amazed at the quality output of Millers little box. Some things you need to know -110v migs are made to run on wire with the gas inside. It requires no bottle of argon or c02. The gas is inside the wire. This wire is called inner shield.
But !! Inner shield is very handy( no bottle, no regulator, no hoses ) except it leaves a big splatter mess, unlike co2, clean. I recommend the 110 v mig with a bottle attachment, regulator...
The purchase price will go up maybe 200 dollars but using co2 will allow you to purchase the inexpensive wire size 030/035... without the innershield. If you need to take the mig on a field trip and don't want to pack the bottle of co2 , just leave it, install a 5 pound spool of innershield wire and go. ( save the small spool of innershield wire that comes with the mig new
untill you need it). Gas- co2 will cost less and work just fine, if you need a special weld, alum...then it will be necessary to buy the expensive gas Argon. Argon will leave a even cleaner weld than co2, but why waste money? use co2. miller has a little cart that holds the bottle and the mig, nice combo. More, do not forget to use mig dip as you weld. It's like blue jelly, dip just the tip in it and weld, after a short time dip again, keep it slightly wet all the time but not soggy or packed full, light dip. You were asking questions about wire speed. If the wire speed is to fast you can feel the stinger being pushed back away from the weld, too slow and it will stick, All migs stick to the tip sooner or later.
I use a flat file and a regular screwdriver also needlenose pliers to clean out the nozzle and clean the tip. sometimes it gets stuck so bad that you must unscrew the nozzle and then unscrew the tip, advance the wire by keying up the mig until the tip is out of the holder. then you can work on it, try to get the wire out of the tip, usually it won't repair and the only fix is to replace the tip, so buy a couple of extra tips and prepare to keep it clean. Other times the tip works fine and the mig dip keeps the tip and nozzle from sticking to the wire but a giant wad of splatter collects in the nozzle and needs to be cleaned out, keep the tip clean often is the easy way, clean the tip before it welds itself closed. Be careful with the wire feed lead, not to bend it too much and it will serve you longer. Give it a little break every now and then and it will last longer 2. Good Luck, Sticky

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Fred Martin

02-24-2000 08:08:40




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 Re: Re: MIG Welders in reply to Sticky, 02-23-2000 20:19:26  
Sticky, I need a little help on your post. Do you mean Lincoln or Miller or did one company buy the other one out in the middle of your post. You start out talking about a Lincoln welder and then refer to a Miller. Otherwise the post was informative but if I was a prospective welding machine buyer, I'd not know which way to go.



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werf

02-23-2000 17:30:31




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
clooney has it right



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Mark J. Ryan

02-23-2000 16:59:35




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
Ive got a Hobart handler with the argon/co2 on it.
Plug it in the 110v and go to work.
If you need it in the field just bring the generator. Works real nice.
you can adjust the feed and the temp.
Ive done sheet metal repair as well as larger fabrications with it.
Would be lost without it now that i have one.
With rusty metal ive got to use the stick thought to get a good burn.

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clooney

02-23-2000 16:54:10




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 Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 13:48:54  
George, if you want to weld ultra thin to about 3/8" you will need about 185 amp @ 33 open circuit volts down to 25-30amps @15-20 open circuit volts. You will want to have a gas kit on it to use an inert gas such as "argon/co2 or co2. You will also want the wire to "NOT be powered until you pull the trigger, you will want to be able to use .023,.025,.030,&.035 wire. It should be 220v if possible 110's don't do good at thick metal. You will also want as many voltage taps as possible or a rotary control so you can adjust it to different metals & conditions ( you adjust the voltage on a Mig) (the wire speed set amps. You might want to consider making sure it has reversable polarity so you can use "flux core wire" if you want to weld in the wind or want deeper penetration.If the motorcycle frames you are working on are chrome-moly a mig welder is not the best choice, you might want to consider a tig or tig/mig combo. I have a "Millermatic 185" & have had no trouble with it, it welds exellent is easy to adjust to different welding tasks. If you ever want to weld aluminum make sure the welder you will buy can be fitted out with a "spool gun"

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George

02-23-2000 17:30:17




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 Re: Re: MIG Welders in reply to clooney, 02-23-2000 16:54:10  
Thanks Clooney and Mark. Great info Clooney.
I'm still grasping everything you wrote. Makes sense that the wire speed would control the temp. And I think I'm safe by saying we're talking amp. But I still don't really have a handle on amps and volts.

Tell me if I'm way off, but home circuits are 110/20 amps, which is within range of your advice for the lower end, but the otehr figure (185 amps@33 open circuit) is throwing me off.

I think you mean that with a 220v line I can get at least 30 open circuit volts which the welder will convert to 185 amps (?).

I know TIGS are way expensive, which is why I was looking at a MIG. Am I asking for trouble if I use a MIG instead of a TIG? Why would a TIg be best? Is it heat and warping or the depth of the weld? And you're right I'm pretty certain we're talking chrome moly.

Thanks for the response.

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clooney

02-24-2000 16:02:54




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 Re: Re: Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 17:30:17  
George, the 185amp 33volt refers to the welder output you will need to weld 3/8" steel in one pass. You will need a 220v 30-35amp circuit to run a welder that will weld 3/8" steel in one pass. Most home circuits are 110v 15 amp so even if you get a 110v mig welder you will probably have to run a 20 gage wire & install a 20 amp circuit breaker to power it.... You "can" weld chrome-moly with a mig but the welds are brittle & might crack...You might want to check ouy link below.

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Steve Hansen

02-23-2000 17:53:09




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 Re: Re: Re: MIG Welders in reply to George, 02-23-2000 17:30:17  
George,

You should have 220 service to your house. If you have an electric hot weater heater it will be 220. Same for a stove, oven, air conditioning, heat pump, or electric furnace. Running a dedicated 220 circuit for a welder is a simple project if you have access to your electric panel. Don't size your welder to your power supply. Size your power to meet the needs of your equipment.

Steve hansen

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