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Radiant Floor Heating for Shop

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Bob

12-25-1999 19:35:40




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I am getting ready to build a 30 X 48 foot shop. Has anyone had any experience with radiant floor heating. How much does it cost to install and operate?




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dwayne

01-01-2000 16:06:16




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 Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Bob, 12-25-1999 19:35:40  
i am heating a 36 X36 ft shop,i have close to 1200 ft of half inch kitec pipe in the floor,we pressure tested with 50psi of water and left the pressure on while we poured,you can run a wheelbarrow across the piping ,just have to make sure when you dump you aren't on a pipe
my floor is done with 6 loops,1 inch of foam
the heat source is an oil fired water heater



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Jerry

12-27-1999 15:54:20




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 Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Bob, 12-25-1999 19:35:40  
I just put in about 2100 ft. of Wirsbo brand tubing (1/2" dia.) in my new shop floor. I won't be using the system until next fall. I'm trying to decide what type of heat source. I'm leaning toward a power-vent hot water heater with a circulation pump and expansion tank, just like full boiler system. With the power vent, I can vent out the side wall and not have to cut a hole in my new roof (I'm a little paranoid about leaks, I guess). There is more expense up front, since you should really insulate under the slab and along side the slab and/or footings. I put 1.5" extruded under the slab, and 2" extruded insulation around the perimeter of the footings. You can put the tubing under the slab in a thick layer of sand. This will add the the thermal mass that will absorb the heat and radiate it upwards. Wirsbo puts out a neat little installation booklet with instructions and ideas. You might be able to get one from Wirsbo, or you local dealer. I'd check with a local plumbing contractor who installs such systems. I'm doing the work myself.

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Fred Martin

12-27-1999 10:17:04




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 Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Bob, 12-25-1999 19:35:40  
Hi Bob from Fred
This brings up another question from me, how would you work the concrete with all those tubes on the gravel and reinforcement? Probably like me on this computer, do a lot of stumbling. And do you use plastic tubing or copper? Seems like the plastic would have more flex to it. I'd want to do an air test on the tubing before I poured the gray gold on it. But, if it had a small hole in it, the concrete would probably seal it. Hmmmm Fred from the Mung Factory

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Josh

10-14-2000 20:07:51




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 Re: Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Fred Martin , 12-27-1999 10:17:04  
For the tubing, you actually use both.The copper is needed for the manifolds to your heat source It does depend on you application though.I think Kitec is the best for putting on the floor. You can drive over that stuff if you want to. Kitec has a few features others don't. It has a layer of aluminum within the tubing for extra flexibility and heat absorbtion. If you're pouring concrete where there was no floor to begin with, you'll need to cover the entire space with wire mesh. This is usually customary for cencrete appplications. Most concrete supply houses have these little wires that they sell buy the thousands. They're relatively cheap and are what you use to fasten the tubing to the mesh. You can also use small plastic cable ties found at any hardware store. The plastic ties will save your hands from blisters.If you are planning to tile or carpet the infloor area, you should use Jip Crete or Gip Crete not sure on the spelling. It's lighter than concrete and works best in that situation. A pressure test is necessary and the concrete will not seal it. You must go back and find the leak, then cut it out and put a fitting in there to get it back together

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Gordy

12-26-1999 08:36:40




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 Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Bob, 12-25-1999 19:35:40  
Bob I spoke to one person that had glycol (sp) in the tubes and he spent about 150.00 per year for an off peak electric water heater (in Minnesota 30x40 shop). I cannot do this where I live with a water heater - the inspector tells me I MUST have a boiler. I am also looking at off peak electric coils. My cousin in Norhtern Minnesota heats his whole house (off peak & with the coils) for maybe $200 per month at the worst month. It is a big four bedroom house. The question I have not got a straight answer to is wether the coils or tubes should go in the sand below the slab or in the slab. I am concerned that if slab cracks, so would tube or coil. If it is in the sand it wouldn't be a big deal. I hope someone else can enlighten me (us). Gordy

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MAJ

01-01-2000 18:55:35




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 Re: Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Gordy, 12-26-1999 08:36:40  
I have helped install a few of these. we always put the poly tubes in the concrete.



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Steve Hansen

12-26-1999 14:38:16




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 Re: Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Gordy, 12-26-1999 08:36:40  
The tubes go in the concrete. They will flex if the concrete cracks. No problem. If you put the tubes in the sand you will lose efficiency because the sand is not as dense and will not take the heat from the tubes as well and, the heat that is taken must be transfered to the concrete. The Journal of Light Construction has a good article in the archives that discusses the use of hot water heaters for radient heat. Print it off and show it to your inspector. Ask for a specific citation in the code that prohibits their use. Good luck.

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Ralph

12-26-1999 15:41:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Radiant Floor Heating for Shop in reply to Steve Hansen, 12-26-1999 14:38:16  
I have heard of putting the tubes in the sand, however beneath the sand a layer of dense insulation is laid so as not to heat up the ground below very much. In this area some folks put the insulation down even without heat in the floor.



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