How do I take piston sleeves out of an A-C WD?

Somebody else suggested putting a couple or three weld passes the length of the liner (obviusly not all the way through the liner into the block), and when the welds cooled the liner would fall out.
Haven't tried it myself and can't recomend it as "Good Stuff", but I'm going to try it when the need happens.
I heat the block up some (setting it in the sun on a hot day) put a puller in place, then apply dry ice to the inside of the liner. When the ice cools the liner and makes it contract, it slides out some or all the way. It's slow sometimes, but you can re use the liner if it's not all ate up (you indicated your liner is bad, so if you decide to go the welding route would you let me know how it works?)

: Somebody else suggested putting a couple or three weld passes the length of the liner (obviusly not all the way through the liner into the block), and when the welds cooled the liner would fall out.
: Haven't tried it myself and can't recomend it as "Good Stuff", but I'm going to try it when the need happens. so if you decide to go the welding route would you let me know how it works?)

Haven't tried the welding on cyl sleeves, but would suggest you try several different welding rods on an old removed liner first. Don't use 6011, it will burn deep. 6013 on reverse polarity might be a good choice. Also I bet the large welding rod at lower amps would be safer, with better results. Hope you've got a welder with a very stable arc.

Milan

: : Somebody else suggested putting a couple or three weld passes the length of the liner (obviusly not all the way through the liner into the block), and when the welds cooled the liner would fall out.
: : Haven't tried it myself and can't recomend it as "Good Stuff", but I'm going to try it when the need happens.
: so if you decide to go the welding route would you let me know how it works?)

: Haven't tried the welding on cyl sleeves, but would suggest you try several different welding rods on an old removed liner first. Don't use 6011, it will burn deep. 6013 on reverse polarity might be a good choice. Also I bet the large welding rod at lower amps would be safer, with better results.
: Hope you've got a welder with a very stable arc.

: Milan

I just finished making a tool for removing piston
sleeves. It is simple and is made from a round
bar of aluminum. The bar is turned on a lathe to two diameters which gives a shoulder in the middle where the diameters meet. The smaller of the two diameters is approx .010 under bore dia(to permit insertion into the bottom of the piston sleeve) and the larger dia is approx .010 under the sleeve outer diameter to prevent the tool from becoming stuck in the block. The center of the tool is drilled and threaded for a long bolt or threaded rod. In use, the tool can be inserted into the bottom of the sleeve so that the large diameter butts against the bottom end of the sleeve. The bolt can then be inserted into the tool from the top of the block and the force generated from turning the bolt can be used to draw the sleeve out of the block to remove the sleeves without damaging anything. It works like a typical gear puller. Some sort of support will have to be fashioned for supporting the force of the bolt on the top of the block(such as a large dia pipe or whatever). I would much prefer this to welding which risks destroying the block if the weld over penetrates. I think this type tool is available commercially from several tractor part
suppliers or could be made by any machine shop at
minimal cost.