Ingersol Rand Air Compressor Piping

Thanks

Apparently another reason to use iron pipe is that it condenses moisture more than plastic, and if you angle your pipes properly, the condensate will run downhill and gather in a section of the pipe where you can drain it off.

Another thing they suggest is that when you tap off of your long run of air pipe to go to a tool, use a feeder line that goes up 6", then through 2 elbows and down to your takeoff point. This will pull dry air from the top of the pipe, and not get the condensate at the bottom. The catalog explains this all very well.

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What will you use the air for? What is your header pressure? I would use 3/4 or 1" schd 80 galvanized. Take off the top of the header and then reduce to your regulators. Put a bucket type steam condensate trap on the tank to automatically drain the condensate.

--- take off to reg <- compressor /
----- ----- ----- ----- ----- --- header

The air is for spraying, operating air tools,and sandblasting. Compressor builds up 175# before it shuts off.
Please define what you mean by header. I'm new at this!

Thanks for your input,
Robert

A header is a larger diameter "main" and has several take offs to allow multiple devices to operate simultaneously without inducing a large pressure drop. In large shops with continuous air demand pressure drop will diminish the efficiency of the air tools.

I would recommend strongly an air dryer before the paint sprayer or sand blaster. Your I-R source can help you there. A thermal regenerative will use the least compressed air and also cost most. A loop of copper pipe in a barrel of ice water is the cheapest.

The suction on your compressor wants the coldest, dryest, cleanest air you can find. If the compressor is near your spray operation it will inhale lotsa solvent. I would find a way to duct outside air to the pump.

Feel the discharge of your pump, it will be very hot. It may be finned to aid in cooling the air. It will be important to regularly drain your tank and pipe drip legs to reduce corrosion and sudden tank failure. I leave the bottom tap on my I-R machine cracked just a tad to auto vent the water.

Now about you. If you are going to spray paint get a decent resperator. A full face negative pressure is the minimum. Get it fitted with eye glass holder, even if you wear contacts. Don't wear contacts under the respirator. Buy extra cartridges and replace when break through occurs. It will cost ~$200, but it will be cheaper than a lung or liver transplant.

Check with your PCP (physician) and ask him or her about how appropriate it is for you to wear a negative pressure respirator. If you have diminished lung function... well its up to you. If you smoke, you got some more choices to make.

You're next choice is a powered air purifying respirator, and they are neat. It is the only way to sand lead or sand blast*. PAPR cost about $600.
DON'T HOOK UP OR INVENT AN AIR HOOD TO HOOK UP TO YOUR AIR COMPRESSOR. Your compressor passes carbon monoxide from the lube oil, CO bioaccumulates and can interfere with your life.

Lastly whatever respirator you decide upon, make sure you are fit tested and trained in its maintenance. If after some serious work, you come down with the flu, only no head congestion, you have chemical pneumonia. Listen to your body.

* sand blasting will ruin your lungs with silica, resulting in silicosis. Lead will interfere with neural function and accumulate with other heavy metals in your bones. As you age and lose bone density the body gets a second dose of the metals.