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A ques. for wrench benders...

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MrGadget

10-22-1999 13:18:57

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I snapped the tierod end bolt on a schwartz font end on my 560. I got the part from Case-IH, but now can't take the old end apart to replace the ball. The tie rod end had a threaded "cap" that has a large slot with a wire keeper that threads through two opposing holes in the tie rod end to secure this "cap" from backing itself out. No need for a keeper, this thing is rusted tight! I've soaked it in "Liquid Wrench" and tried to bang it loose with a drift, but it won't budge.

I understand it can "heated" out. How does one go about doing this. I always thought metal EXPANDED when it was heated. Whouldn't that make it tighter? Help!!!

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MrG: Got It!

10-23-1999 10:07:51

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Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to MrGadget, 10-22-1999 13:18:57

Went to Case-IH this AM, took the tie rod with me. In accordance with a combination of all your suggestions, Kyle took a piece of flat bar stock the width of the slot, heated it up, put a crescent wrench on the bar stck, and turned it right out. Funny how a REAL mechanic can make a tough job look easy! Thanks again, guys, for all your help. Gadget

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Cannon Cocker

10-23-1999 08:04:37

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Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to MrGadget, 10-22-1999 13:18:57

All of these follow ups are tried and true, especially the warning about the flame thrower. I have had great results by doing an old gunsmithing trick I learned years ago. Heat it up (not red hot) and pour your favorite cola drink on it. Between the heat and the "magic" properties of Pepsi cola sucking into the metal, the job is usually done!

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Paul Fox

10-22-1999 13:41:55

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Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to MrGadget, 10-22-1999 13:18:57

As an experienced practioner of the fine art of the Oxy-Acetylene Wrench, I feel somewhat qualified to answer your question.

First, you are absolutely correct in assuming that heating metal causes it to expand. Take any prize from the top row...

However, when it COOLS, it contracts again. The idea here is for the expansion/contraction cycle to break the bond the rust has formed between the male and female threads.

Heat the cap and the portion of the spindle it threads into until everything is nice and red. Let it cool, and give it a try. If it still won't move, heat it again, and try it again. Depending on the metal, quenching it with water will speed up the process of contracting, and might "shock" it loose. Use that as a last resort, as it can also break things in some circumstances.

Also, this process raises hob with any tempering that may have been done to the part.

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MrG:Thanks Paul

10-22-1999 13:53:03

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Re: Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to Paul Fox, 10-22-1999 13:41:55

But that's kinda what I was concerned about. I figured the ball socket was hardened to keep it from wearing and didn't want to ruin the "temper" of the unit by heating/cooling. I suppose I might end up having to order a new end for the tie rod, but I'm already stinging from having to by a new spindle shaft (yup, snapped that too!)

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Kim Hartshorn

10-22-1999 15:41:53

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Re: Re: Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to MrG:Thanks Paul, 10-22-1999 13:53:03

After you heat...while it's cooling is a good time to hit it with the penetrating oil again...hopefully the bolt and the tie rod will expand and contract at different rates allowing the penetrating oil to penetrate further.

Good Luck

Kim

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Bill From Ontario....CAREFUL!

10-22-1999 16:08:50

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Re: Re: Re: Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to Kim Hartshorn, 10-22-1999 15:41:53

If the penetrating fluid has a flashpoint that's less than the heat of the steel, then you're going to have a flame thrower in you're hand.

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Bill From Ontario

10-22-1999 14:43:59

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Re: Re: Re: A ques. for wrench benders... in reply to MrG:Thanks Paul, 10-22-1999 13:53:03

If you're worried about changing the properties of the metal, buy yourself a 575 degree temp. stick from your local welding supply. You're safe up to 650 degrees F. before you do any damage. The best thing to do is to heat it, completely cool, heat it again, then try while it's hot. The first cycle is usually enough the break the rust bond, and and the second heating allows the parts to expand and separate easily. Good luck.

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