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Stud Extractor Won't Work!

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TMAC

06-01-1999 17:37:24

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I bought a stud extractor from NAPA. the print said it will remove studs from 1/4" to 3/4". but when I tried it on a 3/4" stud it just spun around and wouldn't grip. Am I doing something wrong or is this thing worthless?

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Dieseldog ONT,CAN

02-12-2001 14:31:37

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

TMAC I suspect your Napa stud remover may not be up to par.I have the same size tools but in Snap-on and Craftsman and they both work well.I use them mainly on Dayton style 3/4" wheel studs but sometimes have to heat the stud up in the casting if its too tight. Good Luck Dieseldog!

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Jeff

06-17-1999 17:11:24

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

A good way to remove studs is by welding on a nut with Cronaweld 333 from Cronatron Welding Systems, Inc. In the case of one broke below the surface, you can build it up to above the surface with the same alloy.

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jack

06-02-1999 22:38:06

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

It doesn't matter what kind of wax you use, if you have the stud remover reversed you can use Whale Dung and the darn thing won't come out! ;)

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R GUENTHER

06-02-1999 05:59:57

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

ANOTHER METHOD WE USE AT WORK ALL THE TIME IS TO WELD A NUT ON END OF EXPOSED BOLT AND APLY BEESWAX WHILE HOT(BE CAREFUL BEESWAX WILL CATCH FIRE)SOMETIMES HAVE TO HEAT AREA AROUND THREADS.THEN APPLY MORE BEESWAX.

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Pancor

06-02-1999 05:07:39

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

If you are using the kind that look like fat screws with steep left-hand threads on them, you might be drilling the hole in the stud to large. try to frill the hole to the diamter of the stud remover about 1/2" from the tip.

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ROBERT GUENTHER

06-02-1999 06:07:05

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Re: Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to Pancor, 06-02-1999 05:07:39

A METHOD WE USE AT WORK A LOT IS,
1# WELD A NUT ON THE EXPOSED END OR BUILD THE END OF BOLT WITH WELD IF NOT EXPOSED(WITH A ROD CALLED STUD PULLER)THEN WELD A NUT ON THE END OF IT.
2# APPLY BEESWAX IMEDIATELY AFTER WELDING(BE CAREFUL BECAUSE BEEWAX WILL FLARE UP).
3# IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO HEAT AREA AROUND BOLT AND APPLY MORE WAX.

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jack

06-01-1999 22:53:46

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

Not to be funny but, you might have it upside down or just turning it the wrong direction. It should work really well and easily. If its the kind that looks like threaded or knurled cams that move in a hefty steel cylindar (about 2-3" across), there is definately a left and right. One of the cams or smaller cylindars should go in and out to reverse directions.

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TMAC

06-03-1999 18:44:29

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Re: Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to jack, 06-01-1999 22:53:46

Update: I returned the thing to NAPA. A mechanic friend looked at it and saw no 'teeth' on the body separate from the cam teeth. His SEARS brand had it. I checked SEARS and theirs has changed. It now is the same as the NAPA brand. Oh well, go back to the ole pipe wrench.

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jack

06-03-1999 23:05:34

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Re: Re: Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-03-1999 18:44:29

Bummer. go to MAC, SNAP-ON or MATCO. They have the good ones still. Probably cost no more than NAPA...

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jack

06-01-1999 22:53:36

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Re: Stud Extractor Won't Work! in reply to TMAC, 06-01-1999 17:37:24

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