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Engine shutdown

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FredP (WV)

04-12-1999 07:45:20




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I bought my 1951 8N about 1 year ago. Drove it home with the engine coughing and choking. The sediment bowl was full of debris at the end of the 3-4 mile trip. parked for the winter til I could get time to do some maintenance. It was owned by my wifes grandfather he had it for 25-30 years, always barn kept and used only for pulling a wagon. Gave $1200.00 for it. This spring got her out to move some shale and it wouldn't start just one click each time I tried. Removed starter, disasembled,sprayed wd40 everything looks good reinstalled still one click. Removed and retraced exact procedure reinstalled dead shorted the neg wire (positive ground) to the side of the solenoid, burnt neg cable in two pieces. Removed, install new solenoid, starter tested good, reinstalled grinds, won't start. No fire thru the coil, replaced coil,plug wires, dist cap,rotor button (lotta pollen dust inside distributor) no fire thru coil wire to dist. Replace condensor, hey she started yippee yahoo.Used two days and she stops about every 30-45 min, just shutsdown no warning, must jump start ( voltage reg known to be not working), replaced voltage reg, charge battery, she runs but still shuts down at about 35 min this time. checked coil wire immediately because grinding not firing sure enough no fire thru the coil wire replaced old coil back onto tractor, 26 min starts right up. Thats the whole story anybody have any ideas??

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Joe Fabregas

04-16-1999 10:23:20




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 Re: engine shutdown in reply to FredP (WV), 04-12-1999 07:45:20  
Someone mentioned the other day, 35-45 minutes running could be the ignition switch. Something about years of wear & gunk and the switch warming up. Good luck! Joe Fabregas



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jim

04-15-1999 12:50:34




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 Re: engine shutdown in reply to FredP (WV), 04-12-1999 07:45:20  
try removing fuel capnext time engine stops. the vent may be blocked casing vacuum lock.



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Jay Andrews

04-12-1999 20:34:58




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 Re: engine shutdown in reply to FredP (WV), 04-12-1999 07:45:20  
Hey Fred; Thats my specialty....well sort of,but I have worked on many of these problems. I noticed you never mentioned replacing the points, if you didn't you should.Sometimes we will forget while we are doing something else, and the ignition is still on frying the points.When this happens the high temp. will aneal the metal point
arm [making it soft]then after some use the heat generated by the points will cause the arm to distort.If it has been hot it will probably have turned blue.....Your starting problems can be eliminated by converting to a 12 volt system, neg. ground,and the latest solution to points,a electronic ignition, simple to install. when you experience the difference you will never go back. It's fairly inexpensive....alternator,brackets,battery,12v. coil,and electronic ign. can cost under $200.00 For more info. call [409 849 6203]or [email protected] Jay

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me again other important info

04-12-1999 07:50:54




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 Re: engine shutdown in reply to FredP (WV), 04-12-1999 07:45:20  
Forgot to mention sediment bowl replaced. After new voltage regulator replaced amp guage now shows 25 at full speed and 10 at an idle, it returns to 0 at shutoff



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Rick K

04-14-1999 09:41:52




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 Re: Re: engine shutdown in reply to me again other important info, 04-12-1999 07:50:54  
Point which have worn the rubbing block down, or the points themselves open to the point where thy are just barely opening or closing would definitely do that. The heat ofthe engine running would move things just enough to stop the ignition process. A dwell meter would pick things up real quick. A rediculously long or short dwell would indicate this problem. But then, it is usually so easy on a tractor to visually check this that you should just pop open the distributor and look. Turn the engine by hand and see what you see.

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