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Painting

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Donald wilbur H

04-14-1998 19:14:25




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im in the process of restoreing a co-op E-3 and am notsure what kind of primer is necessary, or how much or any thing. i primed my fenders 3 days ago and since it has rained and they have rust spots on them. i had two coats on. please help me. thanks




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roseguy

04-28-1998 07:50:21




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 Re: painting in reply to Donald wilbur Hamblin, 04-14-1998 19:14:25  

What you need is a acid etch primer. It is a two part primer sold at most auto parts stores. ask the acid etches into the metal and really sticks. I use a primer made by john D for everything> it's cheap, 25.00 a gallon, is acid etching and is a surfacer. DO not use anything with lacquer base, ei spot putty with it. I reduce it with a fast acrylic enamel reducer or zylene. its sands easy and holds up well good luck Paul

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rossow (MN)

04-15-1998 12:50:41




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 Re: painting in reply to Donald wilbur Hamblin, 04-14-1998 19:14:25  
: im in the process of restoreing a co-op E-3 and am notsure what kind of primer is necessary, or how much or any thing. i primed my fenders 3 days ago and since it has rained and they have rust spots on them. i had two coats on. please help me. thanks
Quantity of primer (i.e., number of coats) is not the problem. Contrary to popular belief, ordinary primer won't prevent rust (as you've discovered). It's made mainly as a base for other paints. You can get special rust-preventive primers from auto-body-supply houses. Just tell the salesperson what you want. I'm not sure of a brand name, or if you can find these rust-resistant primers at regular automotive stores. Good luck. (Come to think of it, you might check a hardware store for Rust-o-leum or Krylon primers that might work; I can't remember if they make rust-proof primers or not.)

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Alan

04-16-1998 06:31:10




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 Re: Re: painting in reply to rossow (MN), 04-15-1998 12:50:41  

: : im in the process of restoreing a co-op E-3 and am notsure what kind of primer is necessary, or how much or any thing. i primed my fenders 3 days ago and since it has rained and they have rust spots on them. i had two coats on. please help me. thanks
: Quantity of primer (i.e., number of coats) is not the problem. Contrary to popular belief, ordinary primer won't prevent rust (as you've discovered). It's made mainly as a base for other paints. You can get special rust-preventive primers from auto-body-supply houses. Just tell the salesperson what you want. I'm not sure of a brand name, or if you can find these rust-resistant primers at regular automotive stores. Good luck. (Come to think of it, you might check a hardware store for Rust-o-leum or Krylon primers that might work; I can't remember if they make rust-proof primers or not.)

The most common type of rust preventer is Extend.It come either as a liquid or spray.Though it does act as a primer, I've found that using an automotive primer over the Extend makes painting more predictable.

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sherm

04-26-1998 07:11:56




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 Re: Re: Re: painting in reply to Alan, 04-16-1998 06:31:10  
: : : : im in the process of restoreing a co-op E-3 and am notsure what kind of primer is necessary, or how much or any thing. i primed my fenders 3 days ago and since it has rained and they have rust spots on them. i had two coats on. please help me. thanks
: : Quantity of primer (i.e., number of coats) is not the problem. Contrary to popular belief, ordinary primer won't prevent rust (as you've discovered). It's made mainly as a base for other paints. You can get special rust-preventive primers from auto-body-supply houses. Just tell the salesperson what you want. I'm not sure of a brand name, or if you can find these rust-resistant primers at regular automotive stores. Good luck. (Come to think of it, you might check a hardware store for Rust-o-leum or Krylon primers that might work; I can't remember if they make rust-proof primers or not.)

: The most common type of rust preventer is Extend.It come either as a liquid or spray.Though it does act as a primer, I've found that using an automotive primer over the Extend makes painting more predictable.
:I prefer to burn off all the paint with an OXY-acetylene torch or sand blasst if you have the option. Then I use the new urethane paint that JC Whitney or many other carry that you basically can paint over solid rust. Or just use rustolium Primer. When that dries I use a coat of Rustolium tractor paint. I let this dry for 2-3 weeks then finish up with automotive acrylic Enamel with a hardner catalyst. The project never rusts again the rust olium provides a soft base and the top coat give a finish that is uncompromised.Then you can go work out in the field and don't have to worry about scratches or rust again.
Sherm

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