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Quincy or Coleman compressor?

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James

01-08-1999 18:23:20

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I want to by an oil type compressor that I can haul between two shops. I have found two in my buget, a Quincy 3.5 hp cast iron pump 20 gallon and a Coleman 5 hp 25 gallon with an aluminum pump but is 50 lbs. lighter. Which will do the best job for me on painting tractors? Would I be money ahead to have my shop wired for 220 to run these on or stay with 120?

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Doug T.

01-13-1999 16:00:19

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Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-08-1999 18:23:20

In all of the replys, I don't see any mention of CFM [cubic ft./min.] the air flow delivered from the compressor. This could account for HP difference of the motor nec. Are either comp. 2 stage? What is the rated RPM of the compressor itself, to obtain its rated CFM?? {don't confuse with motor RPM] Ck these items out a little closer,they are more important than than HP. I would prefer cast iron. Also another item to consider would be air moisture w/small tank. May be wise to build a water trap with a seperator at the end. I've seen 25 feet recommended. This can be done with water pipe and 180* elbows. Goodluck.

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Bob

01-09-1999 17:29:30

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Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-08-1999 18:23:20

James, I have worked with pneumatic controls for the past twenty years. Quincy is the most dependable compressor I have been around. Wire your shop for 220v,get the cast iron compressor and paint to your heart's content.

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Bob

01-09-1999 17:27:40

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Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-08-1999 18:23:20

James, I have worked with pneumatic controls for the past twenty years. Quincy is the most dependable compressor I have been around. Wire your shop for 220v,get the cast iron compressor and paint to your heart's content.

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Plant Doctor

01-09-1999 16:34:45

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Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-08-1999 18:23:20

We use pto driven compressors to run prunning equipment in our orchards. We have had many different makes and model, but we are now back to the Quincys. They do everything right and seem to out last just about everything else we have tried. So if that means anything I would stay with the quincy. Good luck.

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michael

01-08-1999 22:25:28

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Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-08-1999 18:23:20

Hi james, the decision about 220 volt versus 120 volt go with the higher voltage. less voltage drop at machine at higher voltage reduced current measn smaller wire needed. A lot of places have a 30 amp dryer plug to plug into. ut do both shops the same remember 220 volts means 2 hot wires and 1 equiptment ground [green wire]. As to the compressors the Quincy was at one time considered a very good one I don't know about the coleman. compressor heads run hot. If you need alot of air at a constant pressure or must maintane alot of air thru a range the higher h.p. will keep you there better than the lower. thers something to be said about cast iron.later mick

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James

01-09-1999 06:39:36

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Re: Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to michael, 01-08-1999 22:25:28

Thanks for the input. The ironic part of this is that the higher hp is the Coleman with the aluminum compressor. The cast iron compressor is the lower hp Quincy. Any additional thoughts?

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Dusty

01-09-1999 20:16:50

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Re: Re: Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to James, 01-09-1999 06:39:36

Not all horse power is figured the same way. Electric motors are 747 watts (amps X volts = watts).

Dusty MI

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Mike

01-11-1999 09:18:17

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Quincy or Coleman compressor? in reply to Dusty, 01-09-1999 20:16:50

Here's how it breaks down;
1 Hp is 747 watts (not counting heat loss and friction loss), that's 747 watts of energy delivered to the load.

Today's politically correct manufacturers use "Peak Impulse" ratings to make their machines look better.
There's more to it than this, but imagine a Volkswagon beetle of 40 Hp pulling a plow and say a WD45 (about 40-45 Hp) pulling the same plow. The only way the beetle is going to move the plow is with a running start and a bungy cord (the peak impulse is when the cord is stretched all the way and the beetle hasen't stopped moving yet).

To see what the motor is really doing, check the amperage draw at full load and multiply it by the operating voltage, then divide the total by 747 to get the approximate Hp. It's not going to be exact due to losses such as heat and friction.

And if you can afford it, go with the Quincy.

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