Pole Barn vs. Conventional Framing (Need Pros and Cons)

--->Paul

With the fire danger present in a barn/shop combination I would recommend building these as two separate buildings. As to wall height, I would look at 18�-20� for a loft or second floor room/storage. An 18� wall with a 4/12 pitch roof you will be able to extend out 24� and still have a 10� wall height.

I lean to the pole type for a barn and the stick built for the shop. I would make up a bill of materials list for both types and compare/weigh the pro�s and con�s. I don�t think you�ll find enough difference to go with a pole building on a shop.

A couple things for thought, Is to pour a 4� stem wall as this will [frost line for your location?] give you 2� above grade, which will shorten the lumber in the wall for length by 2�. Snow will side just as quick on a 3/12 pitch steel roof as a 4/12. One does not have to tip long walls up at once it only takes an extra board to build them in shorter sections [12/16�]. Another option [strength/looks] is to screw the metal roofing horizontal instead of vertical on the walls.

Be sure to factor/engineer the snow, wind loads in for your location.

Have you considered what happens if you have a fire? Firetucks are pretty big these days. Might want to consider improving the driveway.

Yea, totally off the topic, and none of my business, but something you may want to think about. :)

--->Paul

I used Oak 6X6 posts, poured a footer for each and pinned them with rebar. I have Oak 2X6s about 10 inches above the floor, at the top and another in the middle. I also braced the corners using oak 2X6s, as well. I used trusses for the roof, on a four foot center, the local Wolihans, 84 Lumber and Lowe's also use a four foot center. I then used 2X4 crosspieces on a 2 foot center to attach the metal roofing to the trusses. I also sheeted the rest of the bulding with the same painted metal, which makes it look pretty sharp.

I installed a prehung exterior door for easy access, along with a standard garage door.

I poured the concrete floor in two pours of 16' X 24'.

The only thing that my Dad and I didn't do alone was pouring the floor, when my nephew helped out, and setting the trusses, in which two of my nephews helped out.

I live in Eastern Kentucky, so that definitely helped some of the pricing. Oak lumber costs about $300 a thousand board feet here. The snow load in the winter is light enough so that the 4' on center trusses will easily hold the weight. The metal manufacturer recommends cross pieces on a 3' center at max, so my 2' on center was well within the metal's specs.

The only thing I would do differently if I had to do it over again would be to pour the floor first, but at the time I wasn't sure if I would have enough cash for the concrete floor.

I've seen a lot of 65+ year old barns with posts set on rocks here in Eastern Kentucky, the posts stay pretty solid as long as you keep them dry.

When I built mine I poured concrete footings to set the posts on, and anyplace the concrete might come in contact with the wood I pretreated with some roof cement, to help repel water. The life of any building is keeping the water away from it using drains, guttering, downspouts, channeling water away, etc. You also need to keep insects (powder post beetles, carpenter ants, termites, etc) away from any type of building to keep it structurally sound.

1. One or two guys can do most of the work, pretty much everything but hanging the trusses. This is the main consideration because I intend to do most of the work myself. (It's tough to erect long walls on conventional without a crew.)

2. It's easy to beef up the building, if need be. Just make the posts heavier or closer together.

3. You don't have to pour the floor first. You can do it a year later, if you run out of cash.

4. Materials may be a little cheaper, although I don't think it's much of a difference with conventional if you use T1-11 (plywood) siding and shingle roof for both.

Now there are a few disadvantages:

1. If you are going to drywall the inside, conventional will be a lot easier than post frame. Likewise, post frame is a pain to insulate.

2. You have to set the posts perfect, otherwise you will have a crooked building. If you haven't done this before, get somebody that knows what they are doing. Also, don't break out the beer until AFTER the posts are set. (Based on experience with brother-in-law's barn.)

I agree that a pole frame would be best.

Some very nice building pictures guys.

T_Bone

Compacted dirt floor. 20x32 with loft, plus a 10x26 ell. Metal roof. Wood I-Beams for loft floor. $6750 for materials, another $400 for fill. I don't believe you'd do conventional framing for that.

Link is to album of construction pictures.

• Barn Album

The I-beams were a bit spendy, but the ease of construction and the rigidity were major selling points. I think the cost would have come out about even by the time I bought 2x12 joists and materials for the center carrying beam and posts, plus I'd have had to try to park equipment around the posts.

The I beams were comparable in cost to chord trusses (maybe a bit cheaper), lighter, and easier to work with.

Irv